land is a Bad Word." So says a spicy-chicken touting poster near the entrance to Maroli. "If You Want Bland, Try Two Doors Down," is another, less subtle jab at the neighbouring KFC. Further inside, "Stick it to the Colonel" leaves nothing to question; it's as cheeky as it is befitting.

Maroli, one of the Annex's latest restaurants, exalts its Indian and Malabar cuisine. Its walls, coloured with a pinkish beige, brandish the aforementioned placards and a sole piece of art: a deceptively docile painting of sunflowers. Mixing self-promotion and impressionism is a bold and playful design move, and Maroli's ambiance is fittingly conducive to leisurely dining.

Seating twenty, Maroli's tables come equipped with plastic cutlery, while drinks come in plastic cups and food is served on plastic plates (somewhere, a plastic mogul is rolling in money). And yet, there is table service. The resto aims for a quick (though not fast) food niche, coupling the brisk service with healthy epicurean delicacies from Kerala - a region in southwest India that's renowned for its hot and spicy fare.

Between choices of butter chicken, tikka masala, shrimp biriyani, and lentil curry, I opted for Maroli’s signature dish: the Malabar chicken ($7.99). After bullying from the posters, I ordered it spicy. You can get it mild or medium, but the decorations will make fun of you. A large pitcher of water arrived at the table, portending the impending intense heat. Tossed in teelicherry peppercorns, cumin, star anise, red peppers, ginger, and garlic, the knots of chicken placed before me were crimson red. The temperature crept up slowly, easing into a veritable inferno and inspiring copious gulps of water and a runny nose. Though the fiery sensation packed a palpable wallop, it didn't detract from the dish's aromatic seasoning. So, this eatery has earned the right to launch an invective against the dull and uninspired competition down the street. Undeniably, Maroli is a far cry from bland. -L.S.