The restaurant is modestly sized. Walls are hung with simple Japanese prints. A U-shaped bar faces the open kitchen, adding an air of liveliness. Pop by for lunch or dinner, and the place is alive with the chatter of a loyal clientele, most of the crowd young and Japanese, and the scent and sight of steaming platters of "home-cooked" food. Amid the hustle, a pair of young Queen Street types whispered to each other about how glad they were that they walked in.

They didn’t seem fazed by the quality of the items, which range from pedestrian (Hiyashi Kitsune, caked with over-fried bean curd skin and tempura batter) to spectacular (Curry Udon topped with a light curry broth and flavourful potatoes, carrots and onions).

No sushi, but with its own noodle machine and takoyaki maker imported from Japan, Manpuku presents a different side of Japanese cuisine. The octopus takoyaki is as fresh as it gets, coming straight from the machine; savory fritters filled with chopped ginger and scallions; alas, dramatically shy on the octopus front.

The small menu also includes little gems like “Shigure Don” ($6.49), a beef bowl over rice, topped with thinly sliced beef and onions. Little plates of yakionigiri rice balls grilled with miso - so plain they look like something you'd serve at a Tupperware party - practically reek of elegant restraint. Be still, my beating, artery-clogged heart!