ith its adrenaline-fueled bustle and sophistication on a shoestring, Manpuku is the embodiment of a hip little eatery for people who love to eat on the cheap. Indeed, rampaging Japanese cuteness, quality fare and a glut of good taste have invaded Village by the Grange, and I hate it.

No disrespect to the restaurant – Manpuku is a damn fine little spot. I hate that I am now forced back to the hideous Village by the Grange, a Geritol-ish little clump of budget stores without a whit of style. For over a decade, I managed to navigate my life without having to enter the land of beige. But here I am, once again enjoying a big gulp of vulgarity.

Manpuku is worth the trip. Besides being ridiculously cute, this is not your typical Japanese restaurant. You won't find sushi, saki or tempura on the menu. But you will be treated to bubbly service and a cheap Japanese-style meal that departs from the common sushi and tempura roster.

The key to the success of this “modern Japanese eatery” seems to be the warm ambiance and plenty of cheap plates. The crowd on a recent Friday night was manageable. But in general, it’s loud, it’s crowded, and unless you score a seat at the U-shaped bar, you’ll be shoveled into a back-breakingly hard chair.