Lucien, Toronto

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  • Lucien, Toronto Page 2

    Ellen Jakobsmeier | Last Updated: April 21,2009 12:47:37 pm
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    Employing the Sous Vide method of vacuum sealing and slowly cooking the bird to maintain the integrity of the flavours, Woods removes the chicken’s skin prior to the “under vacuum” process and fries it separately to get a nice crispy texture. When the chicken breast is ready for plating, the crispy skin is affixed back on the chicken with a buttermilk batter adhesive. The leg meat also goes through a unique process of preparation: the meat is fully removed from the bone, placed in a rectangular mould and vacuum-sealed to make a confit and then pan seared for plating. The final element, a spherical croquette, has a moist buttermilk centre that nicely oozes the hot, rich filling from within. If anything, this geometrical plating (triangular breast, rectangular leg, circular croquette) is sure to please the child at heart.

    Beef is a mainstay of any menu, and Woods has an appetizing dish that readily appeals to the carnivore within. The Organic beef ribeye is a standout dish, with meat sourced from small farms through contacts that Woods made at the Healthy Butcher. With consumers increasingly aware of what they put in their mouths, an effort has been made to source local meats, poultry, game and fish that meet high quality standards while intentionally avoiding factory farm products. The milk-fed lamb loin comes from a farm in Quebec and the duck (Everspring duck ramen) comes from a county just outside of London, Ontario. Where quality might be compromised (say, in the case of the Octopus panzanella – the Great Lakes have yet to spawn that suction-cupped species), Woods sources from countries known for quality seafood (like Japan).

    Those suit-sporters in the mood for a quick bite will really enjoy the charcuterie plate. An excellent addition to a pint of beer, it's comprised of Genoa sausage, mortadella, and a smoky venison sausage made personally by Woods at Healthy Butcher (the apparent breeding ground of up-and-coming star chefs). If you would like to dive head first into Woods’ offerings, the tasting menu (three, four or five courses) is a great start.

    An item that has Woods particularly excited (and ladies, please take note) is the highly luxurious Chocolate Complex. It's essentially an artisanal chocolate tasting plate presented in the same fashion as a cheese plate. Any man in the doghouse with his lady can more than make up for his shortcomings by ordering this for dessert. Comprised of South America’s sweetest export, Woods uses many South American and Caribbean chocolates (Venezuela, Santo Domingo) as well as Swiss and Italian milk chocolates to give tasters an idea of how different cocoa beans, regions and chocolatier techniques affect the flavour. Here, you can expect more than just the boring (and bland) Hershey Bar.


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    AT A GLANCE
    Lucien
    36 Wellington East, Toronto, ON
    416-504-9990
    Contemporary
    Downtown
    Venue:
    Restaurant
    Hours:
    Mon. to Wed.: 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm
    Thu. to Sat. 5:00 pm - 10:30 pm
    Price Range:
    $$$
    Payment:
    Master Card, Visa, American Express
    THE BUZZ

    IN THE AREA

    17 Reader Reviews

    I have just finished reading a bunch of negative reviews about Lucien and think they must be describing a different restaurant! I have eaten many times at Lucien - great food, atmosphere, perfect service and the portions more than adequate. Sometimes it is about the attitude you go into a restaurant with - if you behave in a snotty manner to the restaurant staff, then perhaps you do not get the best treatment in return. Just a thought.

    1. Eileen's Review :: May 20, 2009
    Eileen's Rating: Stars
    A very nice (and underrated) spot. Didn't even know it was here. Service was a bit rude, but the food was supurb!

    2. Gail Klar's Review :: May 19, 2009
    Gail Klar's Rating: 3 Stars
    Dropped by last week for a drink at the bar and was enticed into staying for dinner after seeing all the gorgeous plates of food traveling by. I'm so glad I stayed. The service at the bar was flawless and the food was exceptional! The menu was small and well chosen and the owner happily paired wines for each of my courses. I haven't seen such creativity in cooking for a long time. I'll be back again soon.

    3. FoodieGal's Review :: April 21, 2009
    FoodieGal's Rating: 4 Stars
    Recently ate at Lucien and was very impressed. Imaginative use of ingredients and none of the group had issues with the portion size which seems to be a gripe of earlier reviewers.

    Service was good but not truly helpful when it came to choosing wine. On that note, the wine list was fine but not great at the bottom end.

    4. Anonymous's Review :: March 19, 2009
    Anonymous's Rating: Stars
    Dined at Lucien last night - and enjoyed it thoroughly! The great reviews are well-deserved.

    Decor is gorgeous, and you feel as if you are tucked inside a light-filled jewel box - the lit bar, the interesting chandeliers...it all felt very sumptuous.

    Our table wasn't ready when we arrived, but the host and other servers were graciously apologetic, and made sure we had a round on the house for our troubles.
    The food was excellent. I haven't had as interesting or as exciting a meal in years - the plates were a fantastic smorgasbord of spices and textures, leaving myself and the other two I dined with constantly exclaiming with delight!! I had the octopus and the venison, and both were cooked perfectly. Others at the table had the pork belly, the scallops, the hen and the bison. Quality and variety were top notch. For dessert we enjoyd the chocolate sampler plate at the cheese sampler - and our server gave excellent detail on each component.
    I plan on returning as soon as budgetarily possible!


    5. Laura Comerford's Review :: September 26, 2008
    Laura Comerford's Rating: 3 Stars
    It has been some time since I have eaten this well and that was at the Michelin starred restuarant Gravetye Manor Hotel in England in July.

    The lamb shoulder was beautifully slow cooked and served medium rare. Tender and extremely flavorsome, accompanied by three spice combinations; all were scrumptious.

    The wilted spinach was slightly overcooked, but had not even a hint of the wateriness that prevails in the vast majority of restaurants.

    The decor is confusing, hosting at least three styles I could identify and I couldn't decide if the friendliness of the staff was a cultural inflection I don't understand as a European or nervousness. Either way it no way impinged on an exceptional dining experience.

    My congratulations to the staff front and kitchen, I look forward to returning.

    One last note. The Martini list must be tried.

    6. David Daly's Review :: September 19, 2008
    David Daly's Rating: 4 Stars
    Myself and two other friends all had the misfortune of dining at this highly rated restaurant. I can't say I liked it.

    Maybe I should mention that the three of us are all professional cooks as well.

    After reading about how Scot Woods worked at about a million wicked places. I thought his technique must be phenomenal. I guess it was because the food tasted like technique.

    What's with all the foam?

    When I worked at The Church Restaurant in Stratford two years ago we were playing with foam (in moderation compared to Lucien) and I didn't like it all that much then. At Lucien they use it like it's going out of style and I thought it already did.

    I'm so sick of all this molecular gastronomy or what I call the scientology of cooking.

    Anyway, portions were small. Amuse bouche was a waste of time. Scallops I enjoyed. Arctic char was salty. Too many variations of cucumber on one plate. What was the deal with the egg with pork? Was it suppose to be a play on bacon and eggs? Oh so clever.

    Dessert like everything was disappointing. Wait that's a lie, I did say the scallops were good.

    At least all the plates looked gorgeous. I also liked the decor and thought the service was decent. Note that I said decent and not good or great.

    I know how hard it is to get your mise together to pull off all these composed dishes. I've worked at high end restaurants and ran my own kitchen brigade before I went on the culinary quest that I'm on now. I can respect what they tried to do but outside of kindergarten nobody gets an A for effort.

    I can't wait to open up my own place. If Toronto Life gives this joint "Best New" status it must not be hard.

    Next time I want to eat technique I'll eat Jacques Pepin's book. At least I won't have to put up with the foam.

    7. Jason Cruz's Review :: August 31, 2008
    Jason Cruz's Rating: 1 Stars
    The following is taken from a column I wrote on retro trends especially with reference to the TV show Mad Men. I didn't name the restaurant but it's fair to name it here. It was Lucien. Bad as the food was, the service was appallingly unfriendly. Retro is one thing, rude and bad is another.

    "In this awful restaurant, where my girlfriend and I dined, the pork belly tasted like the eight ounces of flavourless slippery white fat it was.

    The Arctic char sat in a plate-filling circle of mint gel — a failed Martha Stewart colour wash — a puzzlingly wet aspic that anchored other things, an egg yolk surrounded by albumen, a potato that turned out to be another white foam creation, its bubbles vanishing into the fish, five tiny orange egglets forming a glutinous curve the size of a cocktail ring.

    Nothing on the plate was just there; it all gave the impression of having been secreted.

    And so pastel, all of it. It is possible to produce slimy food in clear strong colours: You should taste my peaches microwaved with brown sugar. I call it my Pêche à l'Erreur; small children clamour for it.

    But you really have to work to produce mucilaginous food the colour of Eastern Airlines upholstery circa 1962. And the restaurant did. But why?

    I have never sent back a meal in my life; it's still food even if it's bad. But the single green glass noodle clinging to the char was the end. So we didn't eat and waited to be asked why.

    Why, the waitress asked.

    She got adjectives. "There's an emulsion theme here throughout the entree," my girlfriend said. She is very sophisticated. Earlier, she had been more brusque. "Heather, we've ordered the pro-life platter," she said.

    "It's … viscous," I offered.

    "Jellied," my friend said.

    "Lubricious."

    "Shiny."

    And then I broke down. "Mucus. It was like mucus. I'm sorry."


    The service was brisk and hostile from then on. The entrees were taken off the bill and the meal still cost $150.


    8. Anonymous's Review :: August 11, 2008
    The following is taken from a column I wrote on retro trends especially with reference to the TV show Mad Men. I didn't name the restaurant but it's fair to name it here. It was Lucien. Bad as the food was, the service was appallingly unfriendly. Retro is one thing, rude and bad is another.

    "In this awful restaurant, where my girlfriend and I dined, the pork belly tasted like the eight ounces of flavourless slippery white fat it was.

    The Arctic char sat in a plate-filling circle of mint gel — a failed Martha Stewart colour wash — a puzzlingly wet aspic that anchored other things, an egg yolk surrounded by albumen, a potato that turned out to be another white foam creation, its bubbles vanishing into the fish, five tiny orange egglets forming a glutinous curve the size of a cocktail ring.

    Nothing on the plate was just there; it all gave the impression of having been secreted.

    And so pastel, all of it. It is possible to produce slimy food in clear strong colours: You should taste my peaches microwaved with brown sugar. I call it my Pêche à l'Erreur; small children clamour for it.

    But you really have to work to produce mucilaginous food the colour of Eastern Airlines upholstery circa 1962. And the restaurant did. But why?

    I have never sent back a meal in my life; it's still food even if it's bad. But the single green glass noodle clinging to the char was the end. So we didn't eat and waited to be asked why.

    Why, the waitress asked.

    She got adjectives. "There's an emulsion theme here throughout the entree," my girlfriend said. She is very sophisticated. Earlier, she had been more brusque. "Heather, we've ordered the pro-life platter," she said.

    "It's … viscous," I offered.

    "Jellied," my friend said.

    "Lubricious."

    "Shiny."

    And then I broke down. "Mucus. It was like mucus. I'm sorry."


    The service was brisk and hostile from then on. The entrees were taken off the bill and the meal still cost $150.



    9. Heather Mallick's Review :: August 11, 2008
    Heather Mallick's Rating: 1 Stars
    While the entire experience was superb, out parting experience was terrible. We were given a gift certificate, less than a month old for $500. Our bill came to $420. We wanted to leave the balance as a tip to our server the owner said that gift certificates could not include gratuities. So he was basically pocketing $80 that should have gone to the server. When asked why his policy was what it was, his excuse was that he had been in the restaurant business for 23 years. Apparently that gave him license to steal from his staff.

    10. Anonymous's Review :: July 20, 2008
    While the entire experience was superb, out parting experience was terrible. We were given a gift certificate, less than a month old for $500. Our bill came to $420. We wanted to leave the balance as a tip to our server the owner said that gift certificates could not include gratuities. So he was basically pocketing $80 that should have gone to the server. When asked why his policy was what it was, his excuse was that he had been in the restaurant business for 23 years. Apparently that gave him license to steal from his staff.

    11. Marion Chan's Review :: July 20, 2008
    Marion Chan's Rating: 3 Stars
    5 of us went to Lucien for a friend's birthday on a Friday night for a 6.30 pm reservation. We all had appetizers, mains, shared desserts and had plenty of wine so spent close to $125 / person. Right from the start, we were not impressed with the host / person who welcomed us. He was leading us to our seats when we ran into someone we knew seated at the bar, and we stopped to have a quick chat with our friend before sitting. The host was thoroughly unimpressed that we hadn't followed him obediently to our table (keep in mind that the restaurant was not busy and we weren't blocking traffic in the restaurant). Following that, our server was incredibly condescending to at least 2 people in our party who were asking about menu items. The food was delicious, although the beef tataki was a bit too oily. After a mostly uneventful meal (except for the fact that the white wine was not put in a chiller between refills!) we were summarily asked to leave because apparently there was a party waiting for our table. The only problem was there was no one waiting at the bar, or near the entrance and there was an empty table right next to us that could have seated the same amount of people as ours. Overall, the restaurant is nice and the food is mostly delicious, but the service was very unimpressive.

    12. Jill's Review :: April 10, 2008
    Jill's Rating: 2 Stars
    At the end of my meal yesterday, I called the owner, Simon, over to say, "Absolutely every bite was joy". And I meant it. I've eaten at a lot of Toronto restaurants over my past 4 years in the city, and this by far was the best. Service was a wee bit sloppy at times, but staff was apologetic and attentive enough. I would have loved a second bottle of the Alsatian Gewurz that we enjoyed so much, but they were out and didn't have an alternative that we cared for. But those were minor hiccups compared to the exquisite creations that came out of the kitchen. Congratulations - I know I'll be back!

    13. Anonymous's Review :: November 29, 2007
    At the end of my meal yesterday, I called the owner, Simon, over to say, "Absolutely every bite was joy". And I meant it. I've eaten at a lot of Toronto restaurants over my past 4 years in the city, and this by far was the best. Service was a wee bit sloppy at times, but staff was apologetic and attentive enough. I would have loved a second bottle of the Alsatian Gewurz that we enjoyed so much, but they were out and didn't have an alternative that we cared for. But those were minor hiccups compared to the exquisite creations that came out of the kitchen. Congratulations - I know I'll be back!

    14. Jessica's Review :: November 29, 2007
    Jessica's Rating: 4 Stars
    After reading some decent reviews on this restaurant, I was excited to try out this restaurant. Unfortunately, I was extremely disappointed. The portions were incredibly tiny - I am a small woman but I had to go and eat another dinner afterwards or my stomach would've been growling for the rest of the night. To give you an idea of the portions, I ordered the lamb as the main course. The price was something around the range of $40. Touch the tip of your index finger to the tip of your thumb on one hand. The $40 dish consisted of 2 pieces of lamb of this size (the thickness was approximately 1") and a little bit of tasteless veggies. In addition, the service was terrible and the wait was ridiculous. It took about 30 minutes for us to get our appetizers and another 30-40 minutes to get our main course. Save yourself the money and the sanity, don't go to Lucien!

    15. Jessica's Review :: November 26, 2007
    Jessica's Rating: 1 Stars
    Well, I recently visited Lucien and I must say I was immensely unimpressed. The server forgot to mention that the portions at Lucien are "supermodel sized", even after we talked about sharing appetizers. Really! A dish with 3-4 cherry sized tomatoes does not constitute a salad, I mean what was on the plate was good, but the portion was ridiculous! After leaving Lucien, I felt abused and worst of all HUNGRY!! I would think that after spending over $100 per person, and having had an app, main and desert there would be no need to eat a bowl of cereal once I got home.

    16. Anonymous's Review :: October 08, 2007
    Well, I recently visited Lucien and I must say I was immensely unimpressed. The server forgot to mention that the portions at Lucien are "supermodel sized", even after we talked about sharing appetizers. Really! A dish with 3-4 cherry sized tomatoes does not constitute a salad, I mean what was on the plate was good, but the portion was ridiculous! After leaving Lucien, I felt abused and worst of all HUNGRY!! I would think that after spending over $100 per person, and having had an app, main and desert there would be no need to eat a bowl of cereal once I got home.

    17. Sara's Review :: October 08, 2007
    Sara's Rating: 2 Stars
    Click here to view all 13 reviews

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