Martiniboys

Local 4 Relax Station

Yonge And Bloor, Toronto

Don Ellis - June 10,2009

Local 4 has a solution to all the clock-punching jobs and idle relationships and mindless pursuits. Its mandate is that people have to strip themselves down, get zero-sum with themselves, and that only then can they truly relax. And a few shots of Absinth wouldn’t hurt.

The rustic restaurant/bar sits a stone's throw from the downtown runway known as Yonge Street, with its large oak deck jutting out on the sidestreet panorama; the view, unless gazing at parkade traffic is your thing, is not one of Local 4’s high points.

But there are rewards for making the trek to this oddly located lair; in the location that was previously a sushi restaurant, this ambitious little bar is aimed at the young and not-so-recklessly rich. Local 4, on the surface of it all, appears everything other button down, paint-by-numbers venues are not. Just a low-pressure venue for drinking, dining & relaxing, hence the subtitle: Relax Station.

The three owners Theo Morra (Gio’s, Seven Numbers), Vicky Worlidge (Local Girl Makes Good Catering) and Nancy Gilmour (The Bow and Arrow) are the forces behind the newly anointed space. After years in the restaurant and catering business, the three came to believe that Toronto could use a more down-to-earth eating-drinking-meeting experience.

"A lot of people are just looking for a neighbourhood spot to unwind," said Morra. "And that’s what this spot is all about. I come from the Seven Numbers school of hospitality, and couldn’t pull off a chi-chi lounge if I tried."

The interior is purely DIY, with hardwood floors and a Home Depot palette on the walls. The original Japanese eating pods remain in the back, and little lanterns hang throughout, making the space appear even more homespun. The mood is easy and carefree as local faces move about in this creative yet cozy atmosphere.

At the bar, an efficient bar-staff pours a decent sized mix drink for a ten-dollar bill, and offers tasty menus of both American Tapas and a martini list. Positioned as a neighbourhood bar, Local 4 remains somehow edgy in a world that thrives on edge - without ever labouring to do so - by focusing on Absinth-infused cocktails.

Yes, Absinth. The purportedly madness-inducing "green fairy" of 19th-century bohemia is back in the house. Locals are again soaking up the ritual of preparing a glass of Hill's Absinth and customers are licking their lips in anticipation of 19th century madness. Absinthe (Hill’s version dropped the ‘e’) earned an historic reputation for causing delusions and hallucinations, partly due to its potency - a wicked 70 per cent proof.

With all this early-period Paris vibrancy, Local 4 is tame as a puppy. As expected, it’s all handled with restraint; there's no pumped-up rock soundtrack (just some traditional bar beats), and the serious drinkers never scream or yell - being seasoned pros, they huff and grunt while keeping their composed demeanors intact. - D.E.

Patio Noise _________________________

The very word conjures up romantic visions of Bohemian Paris. Legend has it that absinthe is the only liquid other than blood consumed by vampires. At Local 4, downtown hipsters soak up the ritual of sipping absinthe, licking their lips in anticipation of 19th century madness. The rustic Local 4’s patio with its large oak deck jutting out on the side street, allows people to strip themselves down, get zero-sum with themselves. And a few shots of absinthe wouldn’t hurt. - S.W.

At a Glance

ADDRESS

4 Dundonald Street, Toronto, ON
416-915-0113
Mon. to Fri. : 5:00pm - 2:00am, Sat. to Sun. 11:30am to Close

CLUBS

Cuisine - Pub Fare
Area - Yonge And Bloor
Price - $$ (Affordable)
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