Le Papillon's brasserie-style food echoes the earthy, highly seasonal nature of the cooking of rural Provence. Dishes like the filet mignon aux Trois Poivres ($26.00), a surprisingly tender cut, has been seasoned with the namesake peppercorn brandy cream sauce. A touch of red current sauce is a natural extension of the assertive flavours of the Grilled marinated lamb chops ($22.00).

The l’entrecôte Bordelaise ($24.00), served with a red wine demi-glace, was not a great cut (on two ocasions). Both were works of art on the plate and both delicious, oozing rich red juices and providing plenty of flavour, just not as tender as prime rib eye should be.

Customers will certainly come back for steak and with fervent requests to try out the rest of the dinner menu - or “Les Plats Principaux,” in the restaurant’s distinctive patois. And all would go swimmingly but for chef’s pesky obsession with salt.

Otherwise, Le Papillon, in its new location, is yet another crowd-pleasing eatery that has just the right balance of the salty and the sweet. Its service is attentive and polished without being overbearing, adding to the gracious air of days gone by. It might be a little fussy (not to mention pricey) for everyday, but even in its new location – and yet another location, Le Papillon on the Park (1001 Eastern Avenue) opening this summer - is still a prime dining experience. - ML