oving into the old Izakaya location on the corner of Front and Church three weeks ago, Le Papillon’s haute-dining palace still seems to be coasting on its iconic reputation. The space, still sporting much of the Izakaya layout - originally designed by interior design firm IIbyIV - is very artistically presented (nicely flowing areas, gorgeous washrooms). Asian tapas plates have given way to the understated French cooking that has been Le Papillon's long time signature.

Enter, and you'll find yourself in an architecturally lit space full of dark wood, exposed brick and complementary earth tones. A wall section separates the bar area from the modest-sized dining room filled with dark wood table seating. The room is pleasant enough, but the fun elements – like the large communal table – are now long gone. The whole effect is sufficiently French: hip, cool, elegant and, surprisingly enough, dark.

The French menu, much the same as its previous location, has a full complement of tried-and-true French classics, and rarely ventures out of that realm; Fairly classic French specialties include crepes, which have long been a Papillon classic. L'entrecote Bordelaise, Magret de Canard and Tortiere, with all of the usual suspects well-represented. Although the price of admission is reasonable, if you steer clear of stuffy dishes like Fricassé Sauvage —presumably on the menu for the old-timers—you get what you pay for.

Appetizers such as the seared jumbo scallops with a smooth, rich saffron sauce ($9.75) or the serving of tender Atlantic smoked salmon ($9.00), with capers and Crème fraîche could not be faulted. The tiger shrimp with herbed garlic butter was equally fine. A starter of charcutière with Dijon and cornichons ($17.00) can be shared as an appetizer.

Le Papillon's brasserie-style food echoes the earthy, highly seasonal nature of the cooking of rural Provence. Dishes like the filet mignon aux Trois Poivres ($26.00), a surprisingly tender cut, has been seasoned with the namesake peppercorn brandy cream sauce. A touch of red current sauce is a natural extension of the assertive flavours of the Grilled marinated lamb chops ($22.00).