hat a concept, another French bistro in Toronto. Before you roll your eyes, hear us out. This is the one you've been waiting for. The classic Paris bistro is pared-down to a little hideaway on the edge of Kensington.

La Palette is a cozy, little French affair, a nook with just 10 tables, patterned table cloths, mismatched cutlery and Toulouse-Lautrec on the walls. It appears to be the tiniest restaurant in town (save Berkeley Street Cafe). 26 seats all totaled. The small room feels like it could have been Proust's own bedroom. Serving a selection of rare-in-Ontario lagers that include micro-brewed Maudite ($5.50/bottle) from Quebec or a Chimay is a great start.

This evening of our visit, my birthday, and all ten tables were filled with lillet drinking, cigarette smoking people that seemed to suit the joint, fueling our dining mood. Even our little waiter, bouncing from table to table fit the part of the Parisian ambiance. This little space is a true respite where you can relax and contemplate your madeleines. It’s refreshing to see downtown chic come to Kensington while leaving the attitude behind.

Concepts are wobbly. Osso Bucco arrives in a fussy jus that doesn't sop, just separates. The soup du jour, a lapin chowder, sounded promising, yet proved bland so that it could have been anything chowder. Cassoulet, ideally a slow-cooked marriage of duck confit and white beans, is dry due to a misguided breadcrumb crust. Generally, most dishes are half-good, as is the case with the Grilled Halibut, prepared clean and all too buttery in the classic French tradition; the tasty filet mignon partnered with frites; and the succulent salmon.

Yet Chef Michael Harrington is top notch. Watch out for the better bets -- Roast Chicken, and Camembert fritters (fromage tiede, $8). Grilled sea bass ($17), Herb-crusted lamb rack ($22), beef stew special with Black Angus sirloin tips ($14).