xposed brick, lots of mirrors, an air of intimacy, and a well-stocked bar: This new Avenue Road bistro has effectively eliminated all elements of the former Arlequin Restaurant, re-working the space with cool-kid touches at every turn. The mere presence of the just-opened L'unita is a bit jarring, though; it’s hard to remember a time when the brunch-centric Arlequin wasn’t on the strip – probably because it was a mainstay in this ’hood for the better part of two decades.

Gracefully understated and thoroughly engaging, L'unita deftly interlaces heart and local flavour in what is a warm and well-executed Italian eatery. With owners David Minicucci and Sam Kalogiros working with the shell of the Arlequin, the space could have lent itself to soapy Yorkville-esque treatment, but the two first-time restaurateurs thankfully know the difference between design and pomp.

Three years ago, Sam Kalogiros was well-known at Ultra Supper Club as the kind of manager who liked to wander the floor to make sure his diners are happy. But it was earlier at a stint at the troubled Lucé (in Hotel Le Germain) where he would team up with manager David Minicucci.

The two would later work together again at Milagro Restaurante Mexicano y Cantina, before moving on to other restaurants: Minicucci to Xacutti, and Kalogiros to Ultra and then Lux. Throughout those years, the two would continue discussions about starting up their own restaurant.

Those talks came to fruition in August, when Arlequin officially shuttered its doors, liberating a very desirable restaurant space. The place would need a serious overhaul, but the two were up to the challenge, perhaps not counting on the hurricane of activity and that would come along with it.