xposed brick, lots of mirrors, an air of intimacy, and a well-stocked bar: This new Avenue Road bistro has effectively eliminated all elements of the former Arlequin Restaurant, re-working the space with cool-kid touches at every turn. The mere presence of the just-opened L'unita is a bit jarring, though; it’s hard to remember a time when the brunch-centric Arlequin wasn’t on the strip – probably because it was a mainstay in this ’hood for the better part of two decades.

Gracefully understated and thoroughly engaging, L'unita deftly interlaces heart and local flavour in what is a warm and well-executed Italian eatery. With owners David Minicucci and Sam Kalogiros working with the shell of the Arlequin, the space could have lent itself to soapy Yorkville-esque treatment, but the two first-time restaurateurs thankfully know the difference between design and pomp.

Three years ago, Sam Kalogiros was well-known at Ultra Supper Club as the kind of manager who liked to wander the floor to make sure his diners are happy. But it was earlier at a stint at the troubled Lucé (in Hotel Le Germain) where he would team up with manager David Minicucci.

The two would later work together again at Milagro Restaurante Mexicano y Cantina, before moving on to other restaurants: Minicucci to Xacutti, and Kalogiros to Ultra and then Lux. Throughout those years, the two would continue discussions about starting up their own restaurant.