Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner, Toronto

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  • Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner Page 2

    Drew Rowsome
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    The source of the noise is immediately apparent. Each table is filled with business-lunchers; carefully-coiffed ladies flaunting fastidiously arranged scarves and designer pantsuits, towing the occasional male companion in a V-necked sweater / dress shirt / no tie combo. Each bar stool sports a chic woman who, after hitting the Yorkville shops, is relaxing with a wine - or martini - glass clutched in a bejeweled hand. All are spiritedly conversing. The staff glides with quick efficiency while sporting utterly blank poker faces (though one bartender has the uncanny ability to snap on a radiant expression while proffering refills).

    However, a smile in server Hassal’s direction will earn you a warm grin. She enthuses about her job - especially the private parties that fill the evenings. She points out the terraces that border the rooms and remarks that next summer there will be tables for dining al fresco (and hopefully an end to the dust and noise from the ROM construction, as well). For now, patrons are allowed to take drinks on the terraces to enjoy the view of bustling Avenue Road. Hassal’s face lights up a little more while describing the gorgeous sunsets.

    The staff is very knowledgeable about the fare and accustomed to fielding questions on what's best on any given night, including wine recommendations. With an inventive use of spice and sophisticated blend of tastes, the tapas-based menu here ranks with the best in town.

    Appetizers include: a Marinated Scallop Salad ($14.00) finished with a drizzle of Citrus Salsa; a richly flavoured Celery Root Soup ($8.00) is a good place to dip the dense, chewy bread that's brought to the table; and a solid dose of onion enhances a Roasted Red Pepper Tart ($12.00).

    Among the impressive main dishes you’ll find: the Striploin of Beef with its sweet, dark accompaniment of mushrooms and squash; Wild Black Bass ($18.00) served over vegetables in the standard restaurant way, with saffron and orange sauce; and a braised Duck Sandwich with a plum compote to provide textural balance. Only the Gardiner Burger with cheddar ($14), the most undemanding dish on the menu, is disappointingly average and offers little flavour. However, the onion bun is fresh, warm and wonderful.
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    AT A GLANCE
    Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner
    111 Queen's Park, Toronto ON
    416-362-1957
    Eclectic
    Downtown
    Venue:
    Restaurant
    Hours:
    Daily 11:30am to 2:30pm
    Friday Evening
    Price Range:
    $$$$ (Expensive)
    Payment:
    Master Card, Visa, American Express)
    THE BUZZ

    IN THE AREA
    Go

    2 Reader Reviews

    I have never experienced such a disappointing lunch - January 14, 2007. My husband had the hamburger which looked pathetic sitting on that large white plate. It was just a little bigger than a disk of deep fried chickpeas that you would find in a falafel. It also lacked any kind of seasoning and the condiments served with it were equally unexciting. I had curried shimp in the hopper and apparently it was "more like an entry serving" than some of the other items on the menu. I can't imagine how small the other items must be! My entry had only three (3) very small (half of my baby finger in size) shrimps in the whole dish. The condiments that were served alongside were dry as if they had been sitting out in the air for a couple of days. We did not have wine with lunch because of the price tag ($15.00) a glass, but we each enjoyed a beer ($7.00 each I believe). Although we ordered different beers initially (a lager and a pale ale), we were later informed by the hostess who offered to help us when we asked for our waitress, that they only served one kind of beer(a lager) only to come back again with a different story - that yes, they did have a pale ale as well as a lager. We were confused!

    The room is cold, there is no artwork and although we were told that we were lucky to get a table because of a cancellation, a good number of tables were empty. Why then we were seated in a dark corner by the restrooms?

    1. Anonymous's Review :: January 17, 2007
    I have never experienced such a disappointing lunch - January 14, 2007. My husband had the hamburger which looked pathetic sitting on that large white plate. It was just a little bigger than a disk of deep fried chickpeas that you would find in a falafel. It also lacked any kind of seasoning and the condiments served with it were equally unexciting. I had curried shimp in the hopper and apparently it was "more like an entry serving" than some of the other items on the menu. I can't imagine how small the other items must be! My entry had only three (3) very small (half of my baby finger in size) shrimps in the whole dish. The condiments that were served alongside were dry as if they had been sitting out in the air for a couple of days. We did not have wine with lunch because of the price tag ($15.00) a glass, but we each enjoyed a beer ($7.00 each I believe). Although we ordered different beers initially (a lager and a pale ale), we were later informed by the hostess who offered to help us when we asked for our waitress, that they only served one kind of beer(a lager) only to come back again with a different story - that yes, they did have a pale ale as well as a lager. We were confused!

    The room is cold, there is no artwork and although we were told that we were lucky to get a table because of a cancellation, a good number of tables were empty. Why then we were seated in a dark corner by the restrooms?

    2. K Dunbar's Review :: January 15, 2007
    K Dunbar's Rating: 1 Stars

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