on't get your T-bone-loving utensils all in a tangle over Houston’s at Front and Yonge - this location has too much of a corporate feel. But, the large room adjacent to the bar is filled with cushy leather chairs that beckon, “Bring your brandy”.

While the completely-re-gutted space is a lot more than lipstick and a new dress, the dining area feels generic in a hotel restaurant way. But, even if a dining room with enough wood paneling, dark suits and stern-faced CEO notables to fill a boardroom is not your style, there are plenty of reasons to like Houston’s.

The restaurant's muscular decor is equally matched by its heavyweight menu, which showcases all things meat, because Houston’s is all about the beef. That means thick chops charred with deep, crusty exteriors and juicy red interiors, each cooked as ordered. The menu is straightforward, typical steakhouse, but not everything succeeds as well as the beef. The best of the appetizers is the shrimp cocktail, with four ice-cold jumbo shrimp and spicy cocktail sauce spiked with horseradish. Others we tried didn't fare as well, lacking either balance or finesse. Tiny chicken wings packed a too-heavy BBQ flavour. As for the Caesar salad, crisp petals of romaine lettuce were coated in a mild dressing reminiscent of mayonnaise, while salt was the predominant flavour of the French Onion Soup.

A bit intimidated by the $$$ market price for the filet mignon, we opted for two New York Cut entrees and put the difference toward a smooth, musky cabernet. The cuts – both medium rare - were moist and tender, but we were surprised by a pepper flavour that took our taste buds west. The accompanying (by request) mushrooms sautéed in butter, were surprisingly bland. But on a subsequent visit – this time for the highly priced Prime Rib Au Jus and Shrimps – a side of creamed spinach was rich and satisfying. Other sides include Toulouse Sausage, baked potato and pilaf rice.

The wine list leans toward global and contains some surprisingly well-priced bottles. Wines are stored and served at proper temperatures and poured into good stemware. It's always wise to compare the bottle's label to the wine you ordered; an incorrect vintage was presented to us on one occasion, but the problem was quickly rectified. Desserts continued the hit-or-miss pattern.