Certain dishes have an increased complexity, but Vitiello retains control. The braised duck leg, meaty and slightly gamy, is well balanced by salty slivers of delicate spring onions and a side of deeply rich pumpkin risotto. Chef coaxes maximum flavour out of grass-fed rib eye (from Kerr Farms), which has a pleasant, slightly fatty, Kobe-beef-quality finish. The steak is tasty and tender, although it had not been cooked quite to the medium-rare level that had been ordered.

"We've tried to bring a little bit of the Queen West vibe up to Harbord Street," says Mitton. "I had Bradley Denton (co founder and co creator of Czehoski) help me with the design of the space, Cory Vitiello (sous chef from The Drake) come in as an equal partner and Chef, and I even managed to have my friend Anton Potvin (owner of The Niagara Street Cafe) come in as our Sommelier. I think we have a good thing on our hands here and hopefully everybody in this neighbourhood will agree."

Table-side service could not have been more professional, and the staff is helpful in suggesting dishes and answering questions. With just a bit of polishing, we see Harbord Room emerging as a power player in Toronto's upscale fusion cuisine scene.