Dishes that worked: "Ho Fun" in Szechuan Sauce ($9.95) was a contender, arriving with a surprisingly generous heap of tiger shrimp. In the Shanghai noodles ($7.95 - $10.95), the stir-fried thick wheat noodles are flavoured by smoky-tasting soya sauce and seafood (scallops calamari and tiger shrimp). Interesting in itself, but the Vietnamese noodle soups - otherwise known as Pho - add bite and depth, if you order properly. Be sure to specify that you want the "Tai & Bo Vein," (8.95) which adds rare beef to the rice noodle dish. Other options are the Pho Saigon ($6.95) and the Pho Seafood ($8.95).

There is a downside. If the well-trained service staff - cute and spiffy as they are - don't hustle, those dazzling fried foods lose their luster with each passing second. And items that should be easy to cook to order weren't.

Go, assertive in its quirkiness, is apparently confident of its addition to the area and deservedly proud of its creative take on the neighourhood eatery idea. No doubt about it, as a full-fledged restaurant its feet are dully planted on the ground. But, design advances aside, this feels very much like another Spring Rolls. - A.J.