ucceeding the former Café Brussel space on the Danforth, Globe Bistro may have found the right formula. Concentrating on international flavours and adding a dash of Canadian flair, it has the right vibe. Owner and pimp namesake, Ed Ho orchestrated big-budget wonders with the 4,000 square foot space, losing the dark art décor aesthetics in favour of elegant chic. Acres of blonde wood, a sea of white linen and 16 foot vaulted ceilings put diners in a festive mood, further augmented by the global-plates concept.

There's something irresistible about Globe. The dining room is always busy and buzzing. The clever positioning of tables and mirrors provides an assortment of angles to people-watch (come on, admit it) in the long and narrow dining room, yet the space is also conducive to private and intimate conversation (you don’t want the entire restaurant to witness your attempt to seduce your date).

While I've never had a problem getting a table, the hosts often seem slightly, shall we say, stressed. Some disgruntled patrons have complained on web sites (including this one) about bouncer-like behavior and inattentiveness when the room gets busy. Of course, these grouchy grumblings only enhance the aura of exclusivity surrounding this joint, as the patrons who are fortunate enough to be seated exchange scheming grins (à la the Joker of Batman circa 1989) and superior glances to those still waiting for a table. I haven't experienced any of that; it seemed to me that the eager-to-please waiters have yet to realize that they could easily get away with a huge amount of attitude.

New(ish) Executive Chef, Ben Heaton (Far Niente) has worked his quirks into Globe's plates with a distinctively quiet and engaging style. He takes the bistro repertoire and adds his signature touches that twist the dishes in unpredicted directions, without overwhelming your palette. Beginning with the starters, the empanada appetizer showcases Heaton's presence. The little ovals of pastry with supple Dungeness crab ($7) are warmed and presented with a roasted plantain crema; the spicing of jalapeño salsa adds an aggressive combustion of heat that makes it hard to stop eating.

Alternative starters include an herbed Cookstown greens salad ($9), paired with Green Apple Jelly and a gentle sweet Saskatoonberry (brilliant) vinaigrette, or a small plate of roasted heirloom beets wrapped with Niagara prosciutto ($12), pine nuts and lemon crème fraiche. The light, black pepper ricotta gnocchi ($12) puts most other versions around town to shame. Prepared in a black truffle broth, hints of lemon thyme complement the ribbons of roasted wild mushrooms. The most outrageous combination is the braised Berkshire pork belly ($14), practically oozing with flavour, served with seared scallops, with a mustard foam and natural reduction. (Imagine that sound Homer makes when he craves).