You're at Bay and Bloor. You want sushi. As it turns out, this tiny, streamlined eatery is knee-deep in sushi. Tucked into a small but bright spot across the street from Pusateri's on Bay, the latest Ginza outpost serves a clientele that runs heavily toward lunchtime office dwellers and Yorkville shoppers in need of a little down time.

Throughout, well, forever, Bay and Bloor has never been known as sushi-grazing grounds. But now, little Ginza has filled that void admirably. The room is slicker and more delicate than it was in its previous life as that God-awful Eggstasy outpost, the food is quite serviceable, the service gracious. And, indeed, there's seemingly something for everyone at Ginza, as long as your wont is sushi.

Ginza, which has a distinctly Asian-pop culture feel to it, offers up both traditional sushi and its own custom rolls, Teppanyaki to noodle bowls and sashimi. There's a vast array of standard rolls, in both sliced norimaki versions and big hand rolls, most of which are merely average. The food was good - that was the problem, though, it was merely good. Not delectable, not delicious, not even great. Good.

But, Ginza's real edge, in fact, is the entries hidden in its signature roll selection. Take the soft shell crab spider rolls with tobiko and avocado; it's clean, light, delicate, a bit oily, but a good oily - in fact, a light oiliness that, at its best, seems to avoid the digestive process altogether, traveling straight to the pleasure center of your brain. The tempura shrimp dragon rolls with crab meat are the next best item on the card. And also the wacky tuna Rock 'n Roll, with a sprinkling of crispy tempura bits.

Really, the specialty rolls (the Kamakachi, Spicy Tuna, and Caterpillar rolls in particular) are so huge and well crafted they make the trip worthwhile in themselves. It could be quite easy to pass by Ginza without knowing its existence, but he flavourful but inexpensive rolls could help you include sushi-skittish friends in the lunch plans and impress the palates of even hard-core sushi enthusiasts. - SF