George, Toronto

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  • George, Toronto

    Shawn Willis | Last Updated: April 21,2009 2:51:16 pm
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    Flanked by Chef Lorenzo Loseto (Zoom, Rain) and a groomed and slightly arrogant wait staff, George represents the vanguard in affordable Tapas-tampering. Plates and prices are small, while the room and service are wrapped in a fine dining package. Credit the owners with recognizing a singular opportunity and seizing it, even if one has to marvel at the lengths they were willing to take to maximize the impact of George’s place in local society. Most entrées hover around the $15 mark, making fine dining unbelievably affordable.

    "Our Beef Tenderloin Salad," a waiter intoned one visit, "is the best in the city." I'm actually hard-pressed to come up with a counterclaim. This is a tidy, little salad, lacking the cloying blandness other versions possess: a tomato tartare topped smoked beef tenderloin with a light blanket of cheddar. Other salads are almost as good; a red romaine salad, a regular feature, is loaded with tendrils of Dungeness crabmeat along with a gentle but persuasive avocado presence. Other worthy starters include a plate of marinated artichokes topped with dabs of tomato mousse above a satin-smooth rosemary shortbread.

    Loseto strays occasionally from the French idiom, often with delightful results. Among the second-course highlights an absolutely wonderful Citrus Braised Rabbit, perked up by chive salsa and white wine foam - perfectly crispy over richly flavoured and fork-tender meat. A chanterelle mushroom tart is as classic as it comes, with a side of candied lemon. Non-traditional duck confit ravioli offers plenty of lemon thyme pasta over red beet terrine, pulled together by a citrus-y but not cloying sauce.

    The wine list abounds with moderately priced options, and the featured wine of the day is likely to be the best bargain of all. Desserts stick to the classics--a properly executed crème brulee with a layer of chocolate underneath the custard, and a soft lemon tart with whipped cream and raspberry sauce.

    The dining room is warm and cozy; rough-sawn cedar beams, character chandeliers, well-worn wood floors with its wrought iron screens on windows add touches of Provence to an otherwise industrial space.

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    AT A GLANCE
    George
    111 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON
    416-863-6006
    French
    Queen East
    Venue:
    Restaurant
    Hours:
    Mon.- Fri.: 11:30am- 2:30pm
    Tues.- Sat.: 5pm-11pm
    Price Range:
    $$$ (Within Reach)
    Payment:
    Master Card, Visa, American Express
    THE BUZZ

    IN THE AREA

    6 Reader Reviews

    On an evening out, you know you might run into some bad behaviour, but I have to say I didn't expect to encounter it from the staff at George. I've always enjoyed going there -- it's a nice room and the bartenders make some mighty fine cocktails. But last night we encountered their doorman and he was so rude, I can't imagine a circumstance in which I'll go back to George (short of him no longer being there). He was the classic case of petty authority, keeping us waiting in the line even though a good number of people had left the bar (as a side note, there were a lot of people going in and turning right around and walking out). Then when my friend joked about how most bars would like to have two women go in, he actually told her that he was married (huh?) and then let three people behind us in! Wow. Needless to say, we left.
    Come on George! Get it together. As anyone knows, your doorman/bouncer gives people their first impression of a place and you're doing yourself a disservice having that kind of staff representing you.

    1. KVH's Review :: April 18, 2009
    KVH's Rating: 1 Stars
    We were a table of 5 and each had the 5 course tasting menu. Service, Food, atmoshpere and wine selection is all exceptional. 5 people had Tasting Menus, $100 bottle of wine, 2 glasses of white wine, 5 beers and our bill was $708. Worth EVERY dollar.

    WILL be going back.



    2. Erin's Review :: March 30, 2009
    Erin's Rating: 3 Stars
    2.75 actually :) -

    I think my expectations were too high perhaps. The food is definately good - the atmosphere - incredible. The service - great. That being said, I found the tasting menu(s) very very confusing. We were a table of 4 and got 2 different tasting menu's, several courses were beef, 2 repeated with duck. Some of the plates, honestly, just made no real sense to me. I love a plate that offers me the opportunity to play a little - but I actually found the main (final savory course) totally out there. I think there were 6 or 7 components, some off in the corner of the plate, some grouped - and not a lot of connection between them. If I try, I can probably do a better job of saying that :). I found some of the dishes were overdone and they just didn't make sense visually or palette wise. I also found that the courses of the tasting menu were not well thought out. There was no transition to speak of, too many heavy beef courses, and too many protein repeats. The meal for the 4 of us (tasting menu all around and a starter cocktain) was close to 900 - and I did not leave feeling the 'life is good' feeling you get after a really inspired, witty, well constructed meal.

    I would go back for a main dish, just to get the another perspective..but not in a hurry.

    I do have to say, the amuse bouche I got was incredible - the best duck I've ever had I think. My table mate (with a different amuse) got a not so yummy intro to the meal.

    Too much money to spend to have any significant complaints about the meal. I would not recommend the tasting menu @ George's.

    3. Lynn's Review :: February 15, 2009
    Lynn's Rating: 2 Stars
    Service was exceptional. Food was awesome. You need a second mortgage to pay for your meal (that's the only complaint for a rather enjoyable evening).

    4. RON's Review :: January 01, 2009
    RON's Rating: 3 Stars
    $15 entrees appear to be a thing of the past. Currently priced along side restaurants out of their league, the value for money seems to be far from the mark. Self indulgent platings take precedence over substance, and wait times of 3 hours before mains hit the table, an evening at George is difficult to swallow.

    5. Kitchen Nightmare's Review :: July 17, 2008
    Kitchen Nightmare's Rating: 1 Stars
    The service was very good, smiles and greetings all around. A person from party needed a few changes to the menu and they were eager to comply. Our server had very good recommendations on the wine. Attentive.
    The food was very good. Reminiscent of Rain of course, but manages to be original, well done. Had the short ribs as MBO recommended, and enjoyed it! I especially enjoyed the lemon tarte!
    Nice dinner out, fine dining in service and meals but comfy,casual in atmosphere.

    6. Eileen's Review :: February 19, 2005
    Eileen's Rating: 1 Stars

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