lthough the flowers and menu are appealing, it's the honest-to-God knockout location at Hart House that solidifies the Grill's well-deserved reputation.

What creates the air of aristocracy that pervades the Gallery Grill – you ask? The Hart House, Empire-style room location? The opulent chandeliers? The actual hall of mirrors that leads to the dining room? Call it Versailles in U of T, but don't let the elegant space and American-bistro menu (Truffled eggs, barbecued duck, grilled lamb chops with fancy mashed potatoes) intimidate you.

If the constant flurry of activity in the U of T’s Hart House were compared to a gold rush, Gallery Grill could indeed be said to have struck it rich. On any given lunch, the restaurant is filled with the kind of mix - professors, social types, foodies, politicians - that calls to mind the unique melting-pot quality of other Toronto success stories (the former Agora and JK Wine Bar are two well deserved examples). The Gallery Grill is warm and plush, a comfortable room that is cool and relaxed, allowing the food to provide the splash.

Sophisticated fare (now continental) is united by its focus on fish, due to chef Suzanne Baby’s fresh approach. The lobster ravioli and seared yellowfin tuna are absolute stunners. Non-seafood lovers: try the duck breast, risotto, lamb shank or rack of veal. Presentations are simple and elegant and the food meets the expectations of diners who are counting on the pricey menu to deliver a an equally prime meal.

An iconoclast, executive chef Suzanne Baby is one of the few chefs in town who manages to breathe personality into haute cuisine. This Frank Lloyd Wright style dining room, the wine list and amicable service put the Gallery Grill experience within reach of those born without a silver soup spoon in their mouths. - S.W.