efying the patchouli-infused, mung-bean-munching paradigm of most veggie restaurants, Fressen makes its own route. There are many veggie joints in town, but chef Stephen Gardner has come up with an innovative spot without any of the pretension one tends to find in spots that have obviously placed so much emphasis on appearances.

The staff is as easy and open as you'd expect in this neighborhood of artists and students and young professionals, just a little more polished. To varying degrees the food helps to underscore this impression. Like those responsible for Fressen's uber-design, the kitchen is aiming for a grown-up mix of sophisticated vegetarian cuisine and fun - food that doesn't take itself too seriously, but which is nonetheless carefully thought out and executed.

Stephen Gardner cooks in a rich, high-gloss style. There isn't a single dish on the menu that's less than intensely sweated over and intricately thought out. His menu's high points bear witness that the good aspects of this approach far outweigh the bad: vivid, chemical-green chilled pea soup; Veggie Kebab with curry sauce, marinated and pan-seared tofu in a tamarind - sesame sauce. Innovative dishes span a number of culinary styles - Thai rice stick in sweet and sour tomato sauce, for one exciting example.

Wherever possible Fressen has committed itself to using organic ingredients, a philosophy that guarantees both freshness and a menu that changes regularly. Not surprisingly, the kitchen's approach is more about enhancing flavors than adulterating them. Standouts among the appetizers to date have been grilled asparagus with blood oranges, vegetable tempura, and a crab cake with a spicy corn salsa, while desserts have so far presented one clear-cut winner - a late summer pudding with fresh berries and creme anglaise. - B.J.