Desserts (all $6) also seem to be more generic than the season dictates: a ‘Sky-High’ Lemon Meringue Pie, the signature Rice and Raison Pudding and an Apple Pie -- on our last visit it was peach -- that suffered from an excessively tough crust.

The waitstaff at Fran’s (what little we saw of them) were not very imposing, but they rank among the most uninspired creatures ever to garner a paycheck. The overall service was a depressing mish-mash of room managers and part-timers galore, everyone thrown into a dining room with little to no explanation. Even the manager, who insisted on remaining nameless on a recent phone call, was of no help; “I’m on my break,” the man uttered.” But thank you very much for your call.”

Thus a lot of your enjoyment of this venue will ride on how much you like the original Fran’s. – S.W.