Ever since Fran’s became a big noise in the dining world in Toronto in the ‘40’s - more thanks to that era’s lack of dining imagination than to anything else - it’s been backing itself further and further into a creative corner by trying to duplicate not the bar, but the 40’s era gimmick itself. With the latest Fran’s installation, however, the brand hits a new low in gimmickry, creating a diner that continues with the chain’s disinterest in serving quality food.

Admittedly, it was exciting to see the surfacing of a new Fran’s franchise in the sexy Pantages Hotel, and really, it’s an attractively designed room - driving by at night shows a diner that hasn’t sabotaged the ultra modern hotel in which it resides. Alas, it is a venue that churns out the notoriously substandard fare than the College Street location. The intimate but stylish 70-seat interior belies the reasonable tab, with large windows overlooking the street and a small brightly-furnished bar area near the entrance. Halogen lighting brightens the room, bringing the attractive room live at night.

The menu, the standard Fran’s template, largely ignores the seasons in favour of year-round favourites, including the Philadelphia Beef Sandwich, topped with slices of beef sirloin and melted Swiss, and served on a French baguette ($8.95). It was pretty good, although the garnish of pine nuts threw me, and the dressing on the salad (we asked for fries) was the same substance lacking crisp acid balance that I remember from other locations. Many other standards crowd the ‘famous’ Chicken Mango Salad Sandwich ($7.95), a mango-heavy mess, that, again, seemed to lack spark. The Chicken Parmigiana Sandwich made famous has pleasantly morphed into a seasoned and sautéed chicken breast similarly topped with melted Mozzarella, and served on a French baguette ($9.25).

It's with the ultra-rustic breakfast dishes that Fran’s shines. The Eggs Florentine ($8.95) - zesty layers of spinach, Mozzarella and eggs, topped with hollandaise sauce - is something you might see made at home; it's so straightforward and unassuming. The Eggs Blackstone ($10.95) is just as rustic, but offers more complexity, served a la plancha with smoked salmon, Mozzarella and topped with hollandaise sauce. Not gourmet fare, but, really it’s a whopping deal for the price. It’s rich and warming comfort food, a great dish even if bites yield soft warm eggs with refrigerator-cold salmon.
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For main courses, there's a Steak and Kidney Pie with Dijon and tomato sauce ($12.95). A Pan Fried Sole ($12/75), heaped with a chop of almonds, garlic butter and lemon, is a winter dish, as is the heavy Shepherd’s Pie ($8.95) served in a gratin dish over a thick foundation of mashed potatoes. Like many items on the menu, it's hearty comfort food that has been frozen and reheated on order.