The geek-chic decor of the dining room helps you forget about the car lots outside. Although the feel of the space has become a little tired over the years, Five Doors north has been given a face lift of late. still sticking to its palette of primary colours and eclectic accoutrements, the brand that has become Five Doors North will remain its characteristic, unpretentious self...and that means the prices won't be jacked up.

The Vibe
Unfortunately, both the uptown crowd and the downtown crew find this location a culinary Scarberia. More than once I went in search of the place, this strange little restaurant on Yonge near Eglinton, before I found it. Peeking in a place bearing the address, I saw a flickering TV and a couch. But beyond the couches, a hallway opens out into a large, lively backroom.

The Cuisine
This is food that went to art school, albeit, on the cheap. Dishes surprise, do odd tricks. Somehow, though, it all works--very, very well. A golden tomato soup sweet and comforting until a powerful green chili burn sneaks up on you. Pasta with a leek-flecked, cilantro-accented roasted pepper sauce: Chinese? Spanish? Enter into the spirit, and you'll find yourself gleefully playing "name that flavor."

The restaurant is heady with smells from a large open kitchen. The menu is based on a four-course meal, with a selection of antipasti ($3.95-$6.95), pasta ($4.95-$7.95), meat or fish ($5.95-$15.95) and vegetables ($2.95-$3.95). We start with the sardines, which are nicely grilled with tomatoes, onions and capers. Bony but good. The pasta of the day, Fettucine with grilled mushrooms and asparagus tossed in a light buttery sauce, is exquisite but the seafood risotto is in an overpowering cayenne tomato sauce that obliterates the flavours of the shellfish. A serving of grilled calamari, however, is perfectly tender.