lose your eyes, click your heels and you’re transported - with the help from the overhead beach music - to the sunlit climes of Peru. The wonderful Peruvian food found at this eatery on College Street West. Cerviche (omelettes), hearty meat stews and tortillas and sweet-potato–crusted red snapper can be had for a song, and the atmosphere is relaxed and festive.

El Bodegon doesn't draw attention to itself in any way - it sits calmly amongst the shiny über lounges, without any fanfare, in the heart of the College Strip - and one bite into it, you'll understand why it doesn't have to. Try the offbeat grilled calamari appetizer, served on a bed of radicchio with tomatoes, lemon and grilled zucchini, is the size of a meal.

The The Tacu Tacu -- pan-fried beans and rice -- itself is light but delectably filling, seasoned with paprika and plainly authentic, and of a singular consistency that many more expensive houses miss; the Papa la Huancaina, cold potatoes smothered in a tangy cream sauce with curry and cilantro sauce quite literally melt in your mouth. Fried plantains, which can be iffy elsewhere, manage to be both perfectly grilled, tender and firm.

But go out on a limb, too, and the restaurant will meet you there: Jalea - breaded fish, clams, octopus and squid with marinated onions, tomatoes, coriander and potatoes instead of rice, is a particularly tasty and unexpected reward, featuring a winning combination of tomatoes and herbs.

The unremarkable and reasonable wine is a house wine vlabel. The bottled beers and tropical juices on the other hand, are more with the times; also overpriced, but the swells that come here don't seem to mind. It's worth a trip for your Peruvian flavour.