Numerical-chic naming continues apace with a whopping three new adventurous eateries that have been labeled with numbers. Cue the distinguishing ad hoc packaging full of gastro-archeology and shiny design clichés, and you’ve got yourself a numerical catfight.
For now, the number is Eight, which, of course, is at 8 Colborne Street. Eight replaces Doku 15, a gorgeous bar that nobody went to, taking up much of the lobby space of the Cosmopolitan Toronto Hotel. The lounge/restaurant is still undeniably glamorous, yet the space still feels more like a club than a restaurant and, in many ways, it is.

The crowd is older, mostly traveling businessman meets Lipstick Jungle (or Cashmere Mafia, your call). Yet the bass-heavy soundsystem, concrete aesthetics and glam customers can’t detract from Eight’s dishes being surprisingly good. Overworked and fussy perhaps, but Chef Derek Kennedy's ingredient pairings work – think pan-seared black cod, or charcuterie plates of Niagara proscuitto, foie fras terrine and Serrano ham.

Kennedy's short menu of mains features a Kimchi-rich Ahi tuna ($24.00), nicely plated with ginger soy sauce to deliver the proper amount of bite. The ravioli ($16.00) is another good option, with puffy pillows filled with the meat from oxtail cooked with five-spice powder. They are sauced with a zesty tomato sauce with king oyster mushrooms. I loved this dish, although a tighter grip on the spices would have been appreciated.

From the grill, a 14 oz rib-eye, an imposing inch and a half thick, was pink and juicy, cooked to medium-rare to retain its soft, elegant texture. A tidy, little mound of whipped potatoes and veg rounds out the meal. The wine list commands much attention, reflecting a collection long in the making, and it’s aptly focused on substantial reds with a hefty markup. Regardless of the abandoned-lounge aesthetics, there’s a serious restaurant in here mostly due to Kennedy's presence. And the drawbacks? A meal here doesn’t come cheap, and that name…