ometimes you can judge a restaurant by its cover (er, ambiance. You know what I mean), and E-Pan happens to be one of those spots. New to Chinatown, it's a slick little gem. Although it might seem like the odd man out on a street dotted with for sale signs and vacant spaces, it comes as a refreshing surprise to see life pumped back into the Spadina strip.

E-Pan totally threw me, and here’s why: when I hit up Chinatown for a dose of grub, there are a few requisite items on my imaginary checklist: neon signage, misspelled food specials, white plastic bag table cloths, fish tanks with barely-live lobsters and, of course, and those clunky cream coloured chopsticks. These are my top 5, I’ll admit it, and yet, E-Pan has none of these things.

The space seems like a glossed up version of the real deal. It has the typical banquet-style set-up, similar to most other restaurants on the strip, but there’s a warmer glow to the room. There are pot lights, mirrored panels and pine coloured wood veneers on the walls. Even the ceiling vents (which are detailed in a darker brown) add their own little accent. The servers are friendly and sport matching vests and ties. And if that isn’t enough to make you feel fuzzy inside, the waitstaff wear name tags on their uniforms.

I snag a spot in the front window at a chic table for five, which has a half moon wrap-around, wooden bench. It’s a tad firm, but quaint. A gigantic lantern with the restaurant’s logo hangs above the table. I’m still a little skeptical as I take my position.

“Lovely food,” a woman says as she shakes the waiter’s hand. She heads out the door. “The food was excellent,” another man proclaims. He waves his family along, and they trail behind him. These are good signs.