he business card tells the story. The original ‘Czehoski’s Deli’ has been a long-time fixture on the Queen West strip. And its recent resurrection shows that, for an ambitious restaurateur, the chance to set up shop in the former butcher shop would be a difficult proposition to turn down, especially residing in one of Toronto’s “hipster” zones. Thankfully, Czehoski’s has retained some of the old world, wood-paneled charm that the polish deli had.

Czehoski’s, once an old polish deli, has been transformed to a tasteful lounge/restaurant that has kept some deli touches of old and fused them with current accouterments, creating an entirely new beast. While it’s refreshing to see a place that has retained the integrity of its space, the renovation, undertaken by Brad Denton, has been a two-year process. But once inside it’s clear to see that aside from the crackled sign of fading red letters, this place is all new.

Having the foresight to keep the old sign intact while creating a luxe lounging and dining space is what brings Czehoski’s to a level different from venues that are solely intent on attracting the hipster crowd. A deli fridge that once housed choice cuts of meat is packed with finely selected wines yet again reminding us of the old space; bright, yellow tulips line the tables and are a perfect choice for a space that has clearly been given a rebirth.

While it’s sad to see the older businesses on Queen West lose the battle to the big-budget gentrification, it’s nice to see some sentimental integrity that can keep the integrity of the old while creating something newer and more luxe. Let’s face it, Queen West is renowned for its vegetarian cafes, health food stores and vitamin shops and organic supermarkets and (yawn) herbalists, It’s surprising one can get an old fashioned drink there anymore!

Chefs Nathan Iseberg and David Haman have created a menu that features “deli inspired” selections listed such as: smoked trout and picked onion, pickled sardines, pork and beans, steak and potatoes, and a vast array of unique dishes that weren’t just fancy greens with vinaigrette. There was also a low temp steak on the menu that was quaintly dedicated “in the memory of a grandfather." Small, personal touches like these are what might save Czehoski’s from being yet another overpriced of-the-moment luxe lounge.