The queen of upscale French gets a lift with a more casual menu that promises produce from Ontario’s own back yard, and has nothing to do with French cuisine. Unfortunately, not many people know that Crush Wine Bar has reconfigured the space, changed the chef and casualized the menu. But, if it’s been a while, the King Street restaurant could be worth a re-visit. But be forewarned; with Chef Michael Wilson, who replaced David Gaunt as executive chef, trading the original French menu in for a locavore one, perusing the card takes a little re-introduction.

Crush's bright, sizable interior is somewhat chilly in design, with its open concept room, the long cocktail bar paired with red leather stools, blond-wood tables and a wall overlooking the courtyard space that is shared with Brassaii. But the iciness ends there. Much of the staff has been here since the beginning, and they approach local standards of warmth.

Wilson focuses on traditional British fare complimented by an extensive wine by the glass programme. And, for the uninitiated, this is serious wine country. Don’t be surprised if you spot tastings or classes held in the lower level. It’s a small menu, so wading through is quick: The more simple it sounds, the better it is. Luxurious striped bass ($18) with Beluga lentils & bok choy beats the interesting-in-presentation-only braised pork shoulder (25) perogies, carmelized onion jus & chive. And don't miss the duck confit ($24), served with satisfyingly salty ham hock & braised white beans. Bypass the roast chicken altogether. It's fine, but you can get good chicken elsewhere. Indulge in the Beef Striploin ($28) instead, served with wild mushrooms, green beans & bordelaise sauce.