Anyone can serve a burger. It takes alarmingly little skill to toss together pedestrian bun, hamburger patty, slatherings of mayo-based dressing, run-of-the-mill ketchup and mustard toppings, and have it packaged up by sleepy counter staff. Most skilled chefs can easily fashion a high-quality, dainty burger, too. A talented chef can impress with sumptuous Angus beef options, perhaps fancied up with a special sauce. But that's still a burger, isn't it? And let's admit it: a burger isn't a true treat unless it's done by the pros.

The latest Craft Burger outpost, on Yonge Street across the street from the Toronto Reference library, has captured what it takes to dole out a good burger. Owner Mustafa Yusuf has reproduced this second incarnation with a lay back vibe, and good evident doses of SoHo aethetics. The meal is chosen from a menu written on the wall, surrounded by burger-ish graffiti. The dimly lighted space offers a hip ambiance, and is the great spot to slouch in a booth and chow down after a hard shopping rendezvous at Canadian Tire.

Classic Burgers are 6oz. fresh Ontario AAA ground chuck, and are fairly pedestrian. Even the Chicken Burger was fairly ignorable. But the signature burgers – the Lamb Burger, Organic Beef Burger and the Craft Spicy - are indeed something special.

It's almost an embarrassment of riches, but we struggle bravely through, feasting on the spicy Spicy Burger (6.95) with caramelized onions and spicy chiptole mayo, lettuce and Smoke Canadian Cheddar. There's no need to get gourmet with descriptions here - just imagine the best-ever juice-dripping, chipotle spicy, cheese-smothered burger ever to bless your tongue. Picture a great pile of hot, greasy onion rings. Visualize massive portions that crowd every inch of that square metal plate.

Does the Craft Spicy burger cost a little more? At $7.00 a pop, yes. But it's a heady combination of flavours that gets us moaning with delight from the first to the last bite. No wonder this burger gets so much buzz.