awyers, jet setters, and Alpha types buy into the Windsor Arms mystique. After the much-touted reno of the Windsor Arms hotel, you’ll find the great hall drama of bulked-up columns and high, high ceilings and, just off the main grandeur, little roomlets for side-table service. A swank spot with a European feel and, one might think great food. It's the food and the attentive service that keeps the Courtyard Café one great restaurant. We found the menu to be rather confusing, but our dashing waiter, when he made an appearance, was more than helpful, making suggestions and comments.

At the Courtyard, the discerning diner can always spy a sprinkling of Big Names fueling up on Windsor Arm concepts elevated to complicated meals. The dining room for the most part, is consistently empty. Perhaps it's the food: the Salmon was overdone one night, the potatoes still crunchy, and the vinaigrette for the tomato salad was excessively tart; salade niçoise on another visit was so-so. But at the other extreme, the overstuffed shrimp apps, the famous crab cakes are supreme. Other not to be missed items at this landmark institution is the filet mignon with seared spinach and shoestring potatoes, and pork chops with applesauce and masheds. These entrees are intensely flavored and the portions were adequate. Close the deal with the fudge cake.

Time stands still at the tea room at the Windsor Arms, where afternoon tea has been served forever. Have scones with Devon cream, Nova Scotia smoked salmon sandwiches, fruit flan, and of course, tea, while relaxing on velvet love seats by the gas fire with old eccentric ladies from the ’hood. - R.B.