Nine-Ten's chef is Herbert Barnsteiner (Jump), an man with a penchant for contemporary flavours and technique to burn. His cooking is evenly split between seafood and the easier, and mostly less interesting, meat. On one visit, he listed salmon on the night's menu. The incredibly fresh fish was seared on just one side, bathed in lightly buerre blanc and strewn with halved Brussels sprouts and miniature cauliflower florets.

Though fish is clearly his preference, this Barnsteiner doesn't shy away from meat. The server will inform you that a more popular item on the menu seems to be the Australian rack of lamb, a satisfying cut roasted rare and served in a roasted garlic rosemarie sauce with vegetables and potato gratin. Another is meaty and tender Black Angus steak served with pan sautéed wild mushrooms, parsnips and a Bordelaise-peppercorn sauce.
And for apps, if Foie Gras Terrine is on the menu, that's all you need to know. The rich and generous serving is paired with a powerful dose of “Julie’s” preserves. A great start to a Corner House meal.

For a small neighborhood-ish restaurant, the wine list offers a particularly broad selection of bottles that fits in well with the concept. list, several outstanding undervalued wines can be found. - R.L.