Coca, Toronto

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  • Coca

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    By now, Czehoski owner, Brad Denton, knows exactly what hip Toronto diners want: gorgeous locales filled with blue-jeaned babes who like a bit of a scene with their dining. With Coca, a gratifying gift basket of a resto-bar, he amps-up the formula, resulting in a generally pleasing, though thoroughly unsurprising spot.

    After firmly establishing Czehoski's Queen West cred, Denton and company hope to expand their success with their latest venture. Housed in Blue Algave's former building, just down the street from home base, Coca is already generating buzz amongst industry folks.

    Narrow and bright, the Spanish-influenced tapas and wine bar is complimented by brick along the west wall and hardwood floors throughout. Cushioned high-backs and high tables occupy the front portion of the bar area while the main counter – a wildly sought-after area - runs down the center of the room, keeping everyone at a comfortable, crotch-free eye level. The lighting - track lighting in the front and hanging lights over the booths - is a good fit for both clandestine, arty diners and business types wanting to woo a potential client.

    At Coca, you can soak up the social scene and the high hipster-quotient over some comfortable fare, but if it’s culinary improvisation and big boy plates that you’re after, go someplace else; Coca specializes in small-bite, Spanish tapas.

    Nathan Iseberg, executive chef at Czehoski, is doing double duty, taking the helm at Coca with Kevin Korslick as the chef de cuisine. Confident about Coca's culinary zeitgeist, wine steward and house manager, Christopher Wilton effuses, “Nathan and Kevin are really committed to locally sourced and organically grown food and the majority of the food is prepared in-house. Nathan not only butchers the animal but is dedicated to incorporating different parts of the animal to the menu as well.”
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    AT A GLANCE
    Coca
    783 Queen Street West, Toronto, ON
    416-703-0783
    Queen West
    Venue:
    Restaurant, Bar
    Hours:
    Mon. to Fri.: 11:30am - 12:00pm
    Sat. & Sun.: 5:00pm - 12:00am
    Price Range:
    $$$ (Within Reach)
    Payment:
    Master Card, Visa, American Express
    THE BUZZ

    IN THE AREA
    751

    3 Reader Reviews

    While gorgeous bars and eateries may serve Denton's raison d'etre, customers, I have long wanted to convince myself, seek another raison d'etre: excellent food and excellent service.

    I've been spoiled, I'll admit, by some of the more beautiful things on Earth--inasmuch by stunning aesthetics as sumptuous indulgences. Among them, a guided tour of Chateau Margaux by its owners--who are family friends--followed by early tastings of its prized terroirs. Coming from a family where wine is the cornerstone of a meals, gifts, and ritual discussion, it's always a pleasure to learn something new from an informed sommelier. If only that were so at Coca.

    Eager to correct my pronunciation of Italian Super Tuscans with a condescending smirk rather than a professional demeanour, our self-enamoured sommelier pounces about the menu ever eager to impress his wit and charm upon us. Within his crowd (the only one, I presume), where Beppi's name is tossed about with eagress to evoke adulation or to inspire credibility, the 'G' is hard, not soft.

    "It's called a Tig," he assures me, lips pursed like SNL's Church Lady, head joust in a perky nod--and a slight hint of wink?

    "Do you mean Tignanello? You're saying it's pronounced with a hard G? As in TIG Nanello?"

    "M-hm." More nodding.

    "Uh, that's the first time I--"

    "Sir--trust me, it's not a soft G."

    While it occurs to me that many Torontonians may be none the wiser, I'm confounded. Were my Italian in-laws mistaken in Christmas pasts when our favourite Super Tuscan hid in stockings beneath the tree? What morsel of surprise awaits them! By the time I have resigned myself to my mispronunciation, we're too distracted by frequent interruptions by Himself.

    The food is very good. But if the medium is the message, I'll rather forego gorgeous for gracious gourmet. That's gourmet, by the way, with a silent T.

    1. Anonymous's Review :: March 24, 2008
    While gorgeous bars and eateries may serve Denton's raison d'etre, customers, I have long wanted to convince myself, seek another raison d'etre: excellent food and excellent service.

    I've been spoiled, I'll admit, by some of the more beautiful things on Earth--inasmuch by stunning aesthetics as sumptuous indulgences. Among them, a guided tour of Chateau Margaux by its owners--who are family friends--followed by early tastings of its prized terroirs. Coming from a family where wine is the cornerstone of a meals, gifts, and ritual discussion, it's always a pleasure to learn something new from an informed sommelier. If only that were so at Coca.

    Eager to correct my pronunciation of Italian Super Tuscans with a condescending smirk rather than a professional demeanour, our self-enamoured sommelier pounces about the menu ever eager to impress his wit and charm upon us. Within his crowd (the only one, I presume), where Beppi's name is tossed about with eagress to evoke adulation or to inspire credibility, the 'G' is hard, not soft.

    "It's called a Tig," he assures me, lips pursed like SNL's Church Lady, head joust in a perky nod--and a slight hint of wink?

    "Do you mean Tignanello? You're saying it's pronounced with a hard G? As in TIG Nanello?"

    "M-hm." More nodding.

    "Uh, that's the first time I--"

    "Sir--trust me, it's not a soft G."

    While it occurs to me that many Torontonians may be none the wiser, I'm confounded. Were my Italian in-laws mistaken in Christmas pasts when our favourite Super Tuscan hid in stockings beneath the tree? What morsel of surprise awaits them! By the time I have resigned myself to my mispronunciation, we're too distracted by frequent interruptions by Himself.

    The food is very good. But if the medium is the message, I'll rather forego gorgeous for gracious gourmet. That's gourmet, by the way, with a silent T.

    2. Matthew's Review :: March 24, 2008
    Matthew's Rating: 2 Stars
    Could not wait to try Coca was very excited to go with my friend from out of town. Service was terrible, we were seated for a good 20 min and no menu, hunted down the hostess finally got one. Ordered a nice bottle of red at the waiter's recommendation, was a good 10 degrees under of where it should have been, service was so slow we were only able to order a cheese platter in the 2 1/2 hrs were were there I will never go back, too many restaurants in Toronto, to put up with this. I was soo embarrassed.

    3. Anonymous's Review :: January 26, 2007

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