The house specialties are the Cocas ($10.00): Catalan flatbread with Mahon cheese served with a variety of toppings. A standout on the limited, though generally well-executed menu is the crispy-skinned Duck Confit, served with roasted pears. Also good is a rustic but salty Serrano ham served with white anchovy and eggplant.

Rounding out the menu, the Raciones ($14) - individual casseroles - are a little closer to a meal than a snack. Of these a bright spot is the Roast Quail, which manages to work in harmony with its fig, bread-thyme stuffing and citrus pepper sauce to create an excellent plate. Another tasty option is the Wild White Prawns with apropos flavours of garlic, espelette and a heavy dose of olive oil.

For those who worry that the tapas dishes won’t satisfy their hunger, Coca has a second floor that will cater to dining and a third floor for private parties. Wilton is also working with wine agents to set up cork-dork-enticing winemaker’s dinners and wine tastings.

Wilton’s mandate is to bring his extensive knowledge of wine to Coca, but he also has an ulterior motive: he's intent on shattering Sherry's stuffed-shirt image. “Good Sherry should be treated like a white wine," says Wilton. "It goes bad in a couple of days and it should be dry. A lot of crème Sherrys have artificial sweeteners and a good Sherry can stand up to salted cod, olives and strong blue cheeses.” Coca serves 25 different wines by the glass and 60 by the bottle. Wine glasses are served in three formats: taster (2 oz.), half glass (4 oz.) and full glass (6 oz.).