Another day, another new foodie-baiting spot opens on Harbord Street. More and more, the area is becoming a go-to gourmet destination. Laurent Brion and Whitney Brown have had the pleasure of witnessing the development firsthand, having spent over a year at the helm of Tati Bistro down the street. When the short-lived Wild Thing Café shuttered, Laurent (executive chef at Tati and former chef at Teatro) saw this as his opportunity to finally open his own cheese shop. Thus, Chabichou was born.

Named after a goat cheese that Laurent used to make in France (his mother owned a goat farm), Chabichou carries over 60 varieties of cheese and is constantly adding to the list. About 80% of the cheeses come from France, while the remainder hail from France, Italy, Quebec, and Niagara. Everything from brie to blue, oka, cheddar, and blue are offered here, in addition to a number of fondue cheeses and other moldy delights (that's how cheese is made; get over it). The selection is constantly updated with input from customers (due to its residential pocket between the Annex and College Street, there are quite a few regulars).

At the beginning, the cheese was pretty much the extent of the store, but in the short time since, Chabichou has developed into a casual purveyor of everything gourmet. In addition to the cheeses, the friendly little shop now sells gourmet products (vinegars, oils, spices, teas, biscuits, homemade butter, and, once they can find the perfect beans, coffee), meats (chorizo, salami, sausages, double-smoked bacon), homemade patés and foie gras, and just about any other upscale food product you could think of. Mason jars and glass Harmony Milk bottles can be purchased and are encouraged for reuse, while containers are all biodegradable, as is the fashion these days.

As time goes on, there has been more and more demand for Chabichou to serve prepared foods, and the owners have accommodated with more seating and an augmented menu. I've harped on this before, but as the recession continues, you can look for these types of upscale-yet-casual type cafes and eateries to proliferate. "This seems to be the kind of thing that people are looking for," Whitney admits. "At a place like this you can get a quality gourmet meal for a quarter the cost of a proper restaurant."

Since Tati is only open for dinner, Chabichou fills a lunch niche with a number of prepared dishes such as soups, a variety of different grilled cheese sandwiches, macaroni and cheese, shepherd's pie, and an indulgent Croque Monsieur (heavy on the Crème Fraiche). There are also a variety of French pastries, baguettes and croissants, baked from raw dough purchased at Jules bakery. Originally there were only one or two tables, but now there is ample seating for those who want to relax and enjoy a fresh baked tarte or brioche with their cappuccino.