rand, even exhilarating at times, but showcasey and slightly overrated.

Whether the focus is on the grand room, the exhilarating menu or a $500 bottle of California Cab, Centro has become one of the city's most successful, respected and influential restaurants of the current generation. Almost five years have passed since executive chef Bruce Woods and manager Tony Longo bought Centro from its creator, Franco Prevedello and the place now seems entirely their own.

Dining-room service at Centro has always been good and fortunately the serious attitude at the door occurs no longer. Everybody from the reservationists to the busser is genuine; relaxed and professional. Waiters proceed with effortless authority even when serving your tenderloin (it comes with adorable little stuffed vegetables that look like marzipan). Just as you'll forget Prevedello's absence, you'll forget the staff's discreet presence. At least until they bring dessert, which holds its own with the rest of the menu, including the best chocolate soufflé we've had in recent memory.

The Food