elestin's imaginative French fare consistently packs in a well-tended crowd. Chef/Owner Pascal Ribreau's solid menu, the competent service, and elegant décor - a profusion of cut flowers, large tables, and generous spacing - create a divine dining experience.

Meals get off to a rousing start, first with a little amuse, which might be a square crouton bearing a bit of caramelized onion and a sliver of gruyere cheese, or a warm caramelized liver in a pool of watercress syrup. Then come the crusty French rolls (available at the attached pastry shop, Le Comptoir de Celestin) that are so delicious I had to make a conscious effort to slow down.

Ribreau's menu is dominated by fish and lean meats, accented with a cunning selection of sauce and infused oils. Winning first courses include a carry-over from Allumette; a tender, rabbit meat ravioli, with shallots and basil. The ravioli is a tender marvel, brightened up here and there with a delicate dab of olive oil. Lighter palates will also gravitate toward the potato blinis, a soft baked potato and cream cake, served with escargots, arugula and shallots on a puddle of pastis.

Entrées range from the most delicate compositions to hearty comfort food. In the latter category is a luscious lamb shank, so particularly tender one wonders what force is holding the meat to the bone. Served with clams - albeit bland - and chickpea frites, this is a big meal. Another hefty one is the pork chop tower; a thick chop suspended over a pink roast suckling pig, and that over an assembly of apple slices. All forming the tower balanced on a nut cornmeal pancake