elestin's imaginative French fare consistently packs in a well-tended crowd. Chef/Owner Pascal Ribreau's solid menu, the competent service, and elegant décor - a profusion of cut flowers, large tables, and generous spacing - create a divine dining experience.

Meals get off to a rousing start, first with a little amuse, which might be a square crouton bearing a bit of caramelized onion and a sliver of gruyere cheese, or a warm caramelized liver in a pool of watercress syrup. Then come the crusty French rolls (available at the attached pastry shop, Le Comptoir de Celestin) that are so delicious I had to make a conscious effort to slow down.

Ribreau's menu is dominated by fish and lean meats, accented with a cunning selection of sauce and infused oils. Winning first courses include a carry-over from Allumette; a tender, rabbit meat ravioli, with shallots and basil. The ravioli is a tender marvel, brightened up here and there with a delicate dab of olive oil. Lighter palates will also gravitate toward the potato blinis, a soft baked potato and cream cake, served with escargots, arugula and shallots on a puddle of pastis.

Entrées range from the most delicate compositions to hearty comfort food. In the latter category is a luscious lamb shank, so particularly tender one wonders what force is holding the meat to the bone. Served with clams - albeit bland - and chickpea frites, this is a big meal. Another hefty one is the pork chop tower; a thick chop suspended over a pink roast suckling pig, and that over an assembly of apple slices. All forming the tower balanced on a nut cornmeal pancake

Service supports the kitchen's efforts superbly. The staff at Celestin is thoroughly professional, knowledgeable and charming. One of course expects attentiveness, competence and skill in any restaurant of this caliber (and price range), but the staff here goes further, providing those innate touches that make a restaurant visit truly memorable.