Downtown sandwich dives tend to be the kind of joints where you either don't care about sanitation or don't eat the food. California Sandwiches is one of the few exceptions to that rule. I finally got up the courage to face the construction and go all the way down Queen West to California.

As I take my second - no, third - bite from my pillow-soft veal sandwich I'm thanking Christ I made the trip. I'm too often dismayed to hear supposedly in-the-know foodie types characterize The Sandwich as simple. Those who misinterpret California Sandwiches (Claremont style) as such clearly haven't spent much time examining their plate.

On your visit to California go with one of the four sandwiches on the regular menu: custom, made-to-order ham, turkey, tuna, or veggie, with or without eight or so toppings served on freshly baked, crusty French bread or croissant.

In the roast pork loin, the thick, generous slices of meat, drizzled with a fiery jerk sauce, topped with mango salsa and served on a fresh bun buttered with a curry aioli, fill and delight.

Now, the masochists among us who prefer their pain without mercy might want to wrap their lips around the suicide-hot veal sandwich with peppers. Just remember, don't gulp water; it will just spread the heat. It's bouncing-ball cuteness at the Claremont Street joint. Curved Lucite tables and marshmallow cushions set the stage for other appealingly mushy offerings like veal sandwich with peppers.