Diners choose from a small array of geographically specific entrees, such as Picanha: grilled sirloin with garlic butter and served with farofa, crispy cassava chips and salsa. The seared chicken, a muskily sweet breast brightened by angu (polenta), spinach, in an okra sauce.

A few side dishes are offered; get the Pao de Queijo, if it's not included with any of your entrees. This is cheese bread that is served in Brazil in somewhat the way we have bread with our meals here.

Desserts didn't knock us out and the wine list is compact, but with lots of food-friendly choices at reasonable prices; the by-the-glass list seems particularly well thought-out. There's also a list of specialty cocktails, most of a Brazilian heritage.

With its playful menu, careful attention to ingredients and Mario Cassini’s intelligent, sensual cooking, Caju is serendipitous. The fact that it's in Candy Factory area makes it all the sweeter. - S.W.