t wasn't so long ago that downtown cafés served up a dependably good cup o' brew. Now, it seems, in a frantic pinch to counter creeping coffee prices and make a few extra cents on the general public's most widespread-and once-affordable-daily habit, these old standbys are increasingly undependable, serving up weak coffee and noticeably less bang for our buck.

Then there's the sore subject of lousy service. Say you not only want good coffee, but, God forbid, a pleasant place to sit and enjoy it: not an easy find either these days, when surliness seems to be a prerequisite for most server jobs. Not so at The Dip. A humble but wonderful hole in the wall on the west edge of the College Street Strip, this is the place for a good book or a good chat and good coffee.

This European-style pastry and ice cream joint is a haven to University students and grown-ups who appreciate the finer (but cheaper) things - among them, a primo cappuccino. Any place students patronize guarantees you two things: generous portions and beggarly prices. For a mere $40, including tip, two can enjoy drinks, appetizers, bad boy entrees, plus dessert and nobody has to order a Happy Meal. The service, in the person of a handsome and SoCal-funky blond fellow was casual but attentive. We could have sat there for hours, talking about life and books and stuff, just like the other kids.

As long as you're not setting your sights on Foie Gras, this casual cafe, with its menu of sandwiches and desserts, will fit the bill. The restaurant/bar serves from 8am until 2am. everyday. If you're a student, you have to visit the Dip, which provides decent food and coffee. It may be grungy, and the lighting is harsh, but it makes a damn good cappuccino. But don't expect to study here, boys and girls, especially on the patio. This is a traditional neighborhood kickback spot, with a not so secluded side patio, and a great view of College Street pretty people traffic. Onion rings, chicken quesadillas and the other dishes simmering in the kitchen are the only fumes that infuse the humid evening air. – S.W.