The seasonally changing menu features the braised rabbit ($30) with grain mustard and an elevated arrangement of braised onions, and the yellow fin tuna ($39), slightly seared and lusciously rare throughout and a green olive tapinade - suggested with a Darioush Merlot 99. Most items are listed with frites, but a not-mentioned garlic mashed is a rich, smooth choice as well.

Crisp skin salmon ($29) was done with a tip of the hat to Japan, and I'm sure Japan is flattered. The fish was creamy inside, perfectly crispy outside, dressed with an uncomplicated, pleasantly sweet soy glaze, with soybeans and new potatoes. Roasted Canadian rack of lamb ($43) with garlic citrus created a glossy, dark glaze, and the herb pesto had a real zing to it. Desserts are luscious, eschewing the trend toward the foofy and formal: Chocolate torte, fruit and nut tart, or try living a little - you won't regret sampling that syrup-induced pumpkin pecan bread pudding. Yes, pumpkin. - S.W.