n the corner of Yonge and Gloucester a small entrance gives way to two cozy rooms with pulsating disco, funky art-tiled flooring and an appealing menu. It's a classic neighborhood jewel amongst the parade of the Yonge Street crazies.

The place has a good neighborhood vibe to it: the servers are charmingly conversational. After a few visits, they'll likely know your name as well as your order. The coffee is strong and is poured deftly, without looking.

A lot of effort is put forth on the part of the servers, and that, and it's location, are the Brownstone's main draws. Local martini-heads will linger and salivate over the signature Watermelon Martini. The menu is creative and assured: wildly fresh smoked salmon served over pasta, Penne rabiata, and panini sandwiches and a superbly grilled flank steak. Instead of being stuck with showy herbs and bombed with sweet sauces, the steak is arranged in a sleek way with a modest stack of thick, double-blanched frites and a cup of freshly made mayonnaise for cardiac dipping. This kind of stripped-down elegance dovetails neatly with a whole range of dishes on the menu.

Regulars also know what happens to the lowly sandwich when transformed at The Brownstone. Take, for example, the humble grilled chicken panini. Here it morphs into cheddar on country sourdough with tomato, cilantro and avocado sauce. For dessert, grab one of the heavenly brownies. The dessert selection is abundant. Cakes are moist and thickly iced, and this downtown location has extended hours for the dessert dogs now sniffing around.
- J.R.