aw wood beams and black tones dominate Brassai, the hulking resto-lounge on King West. A vivid-aluminum, communal breakfast bar cuts a dramatic slash across the entire dining room. Simple tables are superbly appointed, most notably by the oversized leather blotters. The open kitchen gives diners a view of the action while minimizing kitchen noise and smoke.

On our first visit, the Moroccan shellfish stew, smothered in a rich sauce, was an almost ethereal experience, as was the toothsome risotto, served with arugula and black olives. Other entree highlights included beef short ribs with a potato pure¥» crispy-skinned roast chicken with chick-pea fries; and grilled calves liver with sour cherry jus.

The appetizer selection includes a couple of bold choices, such as citrus tuna with couscous and beets and yogurt, and balsamic chicken livers that includes grilled polenta. Extra touches distinguish other appetizers: A fig and stilton crostini adds an elegant touch to a salad of apples and arugula, and a little roasted quail plays brilliantly against potato gnocchi in garlic cream.

The wine list is loosely organized by region, and includes enough high-end and modest wines to satisfy the oenophile as well as the bargain hunter, and those who are a bit of both. Waiters don't offer wine advice, and they, or someone else, really should.