loom has to be superlative for us to suggest that it's worth the long drive (it's at Bloor and Windemere), but the grub makes the recommendation easy, especially if you're not afraid of Italian with attitude.

The Bloom experience begins upon entrance, where a gently lit room welcomes you into a tranquil escape. Step into the 40 seat dining area, where quixotic lighting, frosted glass, exposed brick walls and Ultra-like semi-opaque drapery create a distinctively downtown vibe.

The view into the energy-filled area heightens anticipation. Anacleto Design was behind the design, bringing the team together with Bill Iuelle and Chef Sam Gassira once again as it is this very team that made the sizzling Focaccia.

Service is informed and confident, but the heart of this package is in the food, and Gassira doesn't miss a beat. He is not tempted, as many chefs are, to hot dog his entire bag of tricks on complex dishes with obscure ingredients. He simply uses the best of what is available and sticks to the dominating food principal of balance in taste and texture.

His confidently creative plates draw the culinarily sophisticated - who appreciate an exquisite veal osso buco with glazed cremini mushrooms - while amply pleasing those who want their pork striploin on the plate with a mild cider reduction, nice and simple.