his Dupont Street staple is a tiny gem of a restaurant known for its double-quick meals for the pre-theatre crowd heading over to the Tarragon. For the best that this place has to offer, reserve a table after 8:00pm when the crowd moves on to the show. The place has two seating plans and serves up a prix fixe menu, therefore be warned, reservations are a must at prime times.

The owners of this gem the word Tournesol (French for sunflower) to heart, filling the soothing Dupont Street space with a glowing profusion of things sunflower. It's almost always full of people, most of whom seem to be on touchy first dates, getting their fix.

It's an ostensibly French bistro, but much originality creeps into the repertoire, such as spiced scallops with lemon beurre blanc, and duck confit with white bean puree.

Other Tournesol fare evokes warm feelings: a very smooth cream-of-wild-mushroom soup and wedges of crispy, fried Camembert with paper-thin apple slices, a delicate pile of celeriac and mixed fruit compote. The fish special changes daily, and if it’s your lucky day it will be the sole roulette stuffed with airy salmon mousse. And don't even think about leaving until you've tried the firm crusted lemon tart.

The prices at Bistro Tournesol match the atmosphere: humble, but still sophisticated, with apps at $5 to $8, mains $14 to $22 and a three-course prix fixe a reasonable $25. - B.J.