ike Japan’s rising sun, Bikkuri ascended from the ashes of several earlier incarnations and has succeeded where other restos have failed. Offering wonderfully fresh sushi and an extensive menu, Bikkuri has captured the attention of the demanding downtown corporate crowd.

The restaurant consists of a large dining area with a multitude of tables, comfy booths and a bar, decorated in contemporary Japanese design with a simple yet striking red and black colour scheme. Also in place are the prerequisite bamboo awnings, paper fans, and other Japanese paraphernalia. During the summer months, the restaurant offers a small patio in the front, along King Street, however the basic plastic furniture pales in comparison to the well-decorated interior.

Reaping the rewards of its central downtown location, the crowd is almost purely corporate and reaches capacity at lunch. At a recent visit to Bikkuri with a friend we were greeted instantly, politely escorted to a table amongst a backdrop of frenetic bustle and power-lunch bargaining. We ordered green tea and two large bottles of Asahi beer and perused the broad and varied menu. On offer is everything from Japanese salads, sunomono and appetizers to sushi, sashimi, Teppanyaki and Donburi. Feeling hungry, we ordered a selection: sushi, hand-rolls, Donburi and Teppanyaki. We toasted to nothing in particular and waited for the food, which arrived in short order.

The sushi - the standard-setter by which all Japanese restaurants are ultimately judged - is exceptionally fresh and delicious, with a heavy-handed wasabi application. Pricey ($2 - $3 per piece), but worth it, the hand-rolls, while exhibiting the same freshness and quality, were good but failed to meet expectations. The Calvin roll (BBQ eel, tobiko, avocado, mayo and wrapped in salmon) was overpowered by mayonnaise, an unusual ingredient and non-complementary to the otherwise tantalizing combinations of flavours. Similarly, the Dynamite roll felt soggy. Stick with the sushi. Avoid the rolls.

Filling up rapidly, the Teppanyaki and Donburi were so good that we had no trouble clearing our plates. Like Japanese udon and soba noodle bowls, this Japanese bar food offers large, flavourful portions at great prices (ranging from $6.99 to $12.99).