Bar Italia, College Street's favourite neighbourhood spot does updated Italian food with simplicity. The long room, closely set tables and open kitchen make diners feel like lucky co-conspirators here. If the noise level reaches a bit of a din, or the dark-wood banquettes feel less than cushy, buttery walls and glowing hatbox-shaped fixtures cast it all in the dim light of a great bistro - as does friendly, unobtrusive service.

Torontonians and in-the-know late-nighters have all done time here, sampling simple, fresh and elegant favourites, perfectly prepared. Commendable restraint characterizes an ethereally fluffy little Gruyere omelet (sweetly presented with one orange cherry tomato for punctuation). A spicy tomatillo sauce complements a row of flawlessly grilled prawns. A meal of small plates is near divine. Entrees, like impeccable seared scallops with creamy squash and spinach risotto, or roasted free-range chicken that would make Julia Child proud, are highly recommended. - A.J.