he Lounge at The Four Seasons has long been a martini-fueled Toronto clubhouse, even back when It was known as La Serre. Avenue is a chichi networking hub, the place where the idle famous blow out their rich, little livers, and where generations of modern-fabuloso come to do the same. The space is awash in bright (okay, beige) cleanliness, adorned with candles and little Zen gardens.

The lounge is a showcase for fusion fashion; a genteel marriage of the local produce, abundant local old ladies and masculinized lunchroom white-collar men, great, naked planks of real estate ladies (well, under their clothes anyway). Creamy local waitresses are oh so happy to serve yet another Beefeater on the rocks. This is what the cosmopolitan life is like, even without cosmopolitans.

Like the place itself - polished wood, warm lighting, booths often filled with downtown business types - executive chef Robert Bartley’s offerings are unintimidating and classy. Organic Teriyaki Salmon on a bed of Spinach and Shiitake Mushrooms is lightly seasoned with Sesame-Ginger Vinaigrette and makes for a delicious lunch option. For dinner dining, the Chicken Curry and Basmati Rice plate served with traditional Chutney is stocked with a myriad of exotic spices pleasing to the palate. If you find the dish a tad overwhelming, there’s a fabulous store of beer on tap in case of a severe spice overload.

The Avenue rides the rebirth of the hotel lounge. It is an elegant smoke-filled lounge knee-deep in history. If we're gonna plunk down a wad of dough for some bad-ass martinis, we may as well do it at a swank cocktail spot.

Many will come just for the wine, cocktail and martini menu. This place has been a local fixture forever. Models and visiting film industry glitterati nibble at tiny portions of haute cuisine while hovering around the bar sipping vintages. The attitude, of course, is directly proportionate to the look (take that however you want). - A.J.