For starters, the torchon of Foie Gras is something special: meltingly lush, coated in a sheer veil of Niagara cherry compote, held back from overkill by an orange, celery and pine nut salad. There's a beef tenderloin Steak Tartare, chopped raw, slightly spicy, and too small, but feisty. The Baked Artichoke Stuffed with French Chete disk of pork terrine would get you good even without the kicker of the sun ripened tomato salad. The too smoky sweet-pea soup needs adjusting, though, if only to highlight its pearls of luscious parmesan custard.

Back to entrées: the roasted Breast of pheasant is tender but bizarrely taste-free, and the mushroom stuffing, dried fruit compote and Calvados jus lacks heart and soul. However, Clarmo’s almond crusted fillet of grouper, pan seared sea scallops with braised oxtail, bacon wrapped veal tenderloin, and the crispy seared tuna with tartare are four persuasive reasons to check Sunday's real-estate section for a classic 6 at Yonge and the 401.

Though it seems odd that a great French place has settled in these parts, it's hard to argue with the results. You will dine well at Auberge du Pommier, and leave feeling pampered, tipsy, and very, very full. - B.J.