The restaurateur, who partnered with financier Zool Gova (Gova & Co.), designed Arthurs with Philip Di Noto (Neue Designs) to give the space a dark composure that somehow makes you feel more attractive just by walking through the door. And while it doesn't innovate, it does surprise in little touches; for example, the retro glasses from Holt Renfrew on every table.

Chef Teddy Peris (Sassafraz, Sarkis) and executive sous chef Michael Lyons (Canoe) have taken their places at the stoves, working a small plate concept that takes its inspiration from Peris’ experience in Europe and Southeast Asia. With an eye toward cholesterol and calorie awareness, Peris’ plates offer French cuisine with Thai, Burmese Vietnamese and Cambodian accents.

Eating small plates tends to make people relax and take it easy, and it's no different with Peris' fare. He's created a menu of mostly half-size portions. Certain menu items do riff on traditional dishes, like the Black Angus Beef Fillet Mignon with Madagascar pepper sauce. The difference is that Peris' version is a smaller cut and clocks in at a mere $17.00.

It's same with the Rack of New Zealand Lamb ($17.00), a smaller version served with a pear and mint salad. The Baked Atlantic Salmon ($14.00) with coconut tamarind beurre blanc or Atlantic Lobster Medallion ($16.00) with steamed asparagus and citrus jasmine rice do just fine in small proportions, thank you very much. And if eating light means a lifetime of Muscovy Duck and Foe Gras with truffle port wine essence, you can sign us up. - D.E.