
A lot can be said about the Queen Street strip between Spadina and Bathurst: it's not what it used to be; it's lost its crown to Ossington; it's too commercial; it’s dirty, etc. But, one aspect of this stretch of Toronto that cannot be disputed is its urban quality; from yoga mats and run-down flower shops to tattoos and t-shirts, Queen West is extraordinary in its effortlessness.
But, for
Eduardo Lee, proud owner of Queen Street's just-opened Venezuelan eatery,
Arepa Café, that Queen Street flavour is definitely for the better. By marketing
Arepa not as an ethnic restaurant but as a "hybrid between Venezuelan and Toronto urbanity,"
Lee's choice of location was spot on. The ease with which
Arepa Café has adapted to the Queen Street dynamic is not a surprise, given that
Lee has a degree in environmental design and many years experience in the restaurant industry.
Whether this concept is novel or not, food quality and atmosphere consideration are both tantamount to a successful business, according to the Venezuelan-born restaurateur. That said, both the menu and design of
Arepa Café reflect Venezuela's urbanity, poverty, affluence and culture while still incorporating elements of the Toronto scene. And the space - longtime area dwellers will know it through its various guises:
Greenavi Café, Just Us Café, Tequila Bookworm – is decked out in Queen West attire; uilitarian metal folding chairs mix with archetypal Eames furniture; concrete countertops coolly underscore intentionally distressed maple flooring; and 1969 "paperclip" K700 barstools (designed in Toronto) provide a stark contrast to a rich exposed brick space.
A main stock item of the menu has been rigged into the design schematics; the focal point of the room is an entire wall displaying bold yellow bags of corn flour neatly lined up with military precision. That bright product placement, aglow in its beaming, corn-coloured hue, gives a decidedly generous hint at
Chef Carlos Fuenmayor's specialty (in case the café’s name wasn’t enough): Arepas, a Venezuelan version of a tortilla. Much like a Mexican burrito or an American hamburger, the stuffed Arepa is a sandwich of sorts which is the single most popular food in Venezuela found, as
Lee maintains, "across the country from city to city and in the roads that run between."
For now, the card, which is all locally sourced to underscore the unification of Venezuelan and Toronto cultures, features a variety of the South American sandwiches. From codfish with sweet peppers, onions and garlic; to beef tenderloin with guacamole, queso fresco and tomato; to roasted pork with caramelized onions, the menu will constantly renew itself owing to the unfathomable amount of choice when it comes to the popular treats. In addition to the arepas, the new Toronto restaurant features a few entrées and snacks including the "Pabellon carquero" – flank steak with rice, black beans and sweet plantains and the grilled corn pancake with queso fresca and fresh basil.