For the owners of a men’s clothing company that grossed $1.17 billion dollars in 2006, it seems only appropriate that they would splurge on a fancy contemporary architect to design their new Fifth Avenue shop. Designer label Ermenegildo Zegna and architect Peter Marino collaborated on the three story suit connoisseur’s haven in an ancient eight story building. The original details and structure from 1912 served as a steep but inspiring base for Marino to do his thing in. And do his thing, he did.

Unlike Marino’s other designer retail ventures (Armani, Louis Vuitton, Chanel), Ermenegildo Zegna wouldn’t allow women’s clothing to compromise any part of his inherently masculine mission. Marino embraced the testosterone of the men’s brand wholeheartedly with his design scheme. He was hell-bent on making things “move” within the space. He came up with a flowing design that encourages customers to explore the three-tiered store with ease and interest. The attention to movement could also be viewed as a mirror for the Zegna brand’s speedy expansion. This year alone they plan to open 150 more stores (on top of the existing 200) worldwide. The surprising part is that the entire enterprise still lies completely in the hands of Zegna’s family. Who said family values don’t pay off?

Marino’s other main source of inspiration was a little textile mill from 1910 in the small town of Trivero, Italy where the Zegna enterprise got its start. Warm emerald colored stone floors are reminiscent of rolling grass plains. All the details are evocative of the original textile mill. Steel crisscrossed cables provide the display backdrop and look like loosely woven yarn on a loom. Broadcloth panels and enlarged Frank Thiel photos show the brand’s age in a brilliantly modern fashion. Marino was successful in his attempt to capture the span of the Zegna brand from 1910 to the present moment and into the future. All the rare wood shelving and dark monotones (besides the green floors) finish off the space with an ageless yet always progressing tribute to Zegna’s clothes for men.

The three floors are classed accordingly. The lower class (the first floor) sells accessories, shirts, shades and shoes. The middle class pushes the label’s casual or “Saturday” clothes. The first class, complete with a fireplace, sells the patent Zegna suits and tuxedos starting at $2,500.

Some people have good work ethic, others have good taste and still others know how to ride the momentum train. Ermenegildo Zegna has all three of these attributes. Go and see the museum of the Zegna genius at Marino’s Fifth Avenue creation. –J.T.

663 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY