porks never really caught on. Nor have knorks (they exist, trust me). Why have attempts at utensil progression failed? Because the fork is just too damn good.

Like its namesake, Red Hook's The Good Fork is a trusty, solid (though relatively new) neighborhood bistro. Menu items tend toward comfort fare, but in a gussied up way. Steak and Eggs Korean Style ($18) twists an old favorite, the Burger ($9.50) garners raves, and the Ravioli ($16) happily adds a pine nut twist. The exposed brick and booth space is inviting and smooth. Incidentally, spoons are for hobos and Dickensian orphans. -S.T.